Recently my mother-in-law, Nancy, decided to make “coq au Riesling” with an organic, black-feathered chicken she bought at the Park Slope Food Cooperative. But she didn’t have any Riesling, so she asked me. Alas, I didn’t either. (I really have to buy more Riesling.) But I did have a young Grüner Veltliner from Austria I thought might do.
So Nancy cooked the chicken in a casserole with onions, lardons and half the bottle of Grüner, then finished it with a dollop of cream. It was delicious. We drank the rest of the bottle, and the match was excellent. Loimer's young white wine had a lively spritz, a light body and crisp, citrusy acidity, with hints of pears and herbs. I rated it 85 points, non-blind.
I paid $13 for the screw-capped bottle and considered it a good value. It proved the old adage that putting the same wine in the pot and the glass yields a pleasant harmony.
WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review for Loimer Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein Niederösterreich Lois 2009 (84, $13).
• Plus, get scores and tasting notes for recently rated Top Values among whites from Austria.