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On the holiday Monday celebrating the life and achievements of Martin Luther King, Jr., I took my wife, Sara, and mother-in-law, Nancy, to L’Absinthe, one of our favorite French brasseries in Manhattan. It has a beautiful, traditional decor, a menu of delicious, authentic dishes and a classic brasserie wine list (which holds an Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator).
It was a very quiet afternoon there, and I wondered if perhaps the weekend had been slow, too—because the white wines we ordered by the glass seemed a bit flat, as if they had been opened for a while. Rather disappointing. So I decided to order a half-bottle of Louis Jadot Pouilly-Fuissé to go with our main courses: duck confit, sautéed scallops and choucroute.
All the food was excellent, not fancy but flavorful and balanced, just the way it should be. The same was true of the white Burgundy. It was fresh and balanced, with modest flavors of pear and mineral, subdued in character but clean and focused. I rated the wine 87 points, non-blind. The Chardonnay was perhaps a bit too subdued for the choucroute and the duck, but a classic match with the scallops. That was Nancy’s dish, and since she was happy, so was I.
Jeremiah Morehouse — Sacramento CA — January 19, 2011 4:35pm ET
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