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Senior editor and tasting director Bruce Sanderson joined Wine Spectator in 1993. His tasting beats are Burgundy, Italy and Germany.
Bruce Sanderson

A Complex White for a Tasting Menu

F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Trocken Wachau Dürnsteiner Kellerberg 2007

Bruce Sanderson
Posted: January 12, 2011

At a dinner at Seasonal, an Austrian restaurant in New York, we decided to try the tasting menu. It was full of fall ingredients, root vegetables, braised meats, broths and spices. After some back and forth with the wine director, we selected his last bottle of F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Trocken Wachau Dürnsteiner Kellerberg 2007 ($159) from the list, which is particularly strong in Austrian selections.

It was a terrific white, a symphony of aromas and flavors. Citrus, white peach and legume notes typical of the Grüner Veltliner grape variety were augmented by elderflower, cardamom and sandalwood, and there was an underlying mineral current. Above all, we liked its precision and delineation; 94 points, non-blind.

Most important, the wine matched every dish on the tasting menu but one. (We had a glass of red with the venison course.) It was especially delicious with the glazed pork belly and chestnut puree.

WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review for F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Trocken Wachau Dürnsteiner Kellerberg 2007 (91, $95).

• Plus, get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated Grüner Veltliners from Austria, along with our quick list of Top Values among Austrian whites.

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