Senior editor and tasting director Bruce Sanderson joined Wine Spectator in 1993. His tasting beats are Burgundy, Italy and Germany.

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A Barbera Welcome in La Morra

Alessandro Veglio Barbera d’Alba 2008

Bruce Sanderson
Posted: December 16, 2010

When I arrived in La Morra on my recent trip through Piedmont, I was hungry. Bruno Viberti, owner of the Corte Gondina hotel where I stay, recommended a new osteria and wine bar in the village called More e Macine.

It’s a casual space in the center of La Morra, with a chalkboard presenting the wines by the glass. The list isn’t extensive, about 100 selections, but most of the Barolos are less than 50 euros.

I ordered the roast rabbit and a glass of Barbera (4.50 euros, about $6) to wash it down. I figured the fresh acidity and juicy fruit would be perfect for the tender white meat. The wine was from Alessandro Veglio, a relatively new young producer who I believe is not yet imported to the United States. It was something new to try.

Dark in color, the Barbera had a fresh blackberry nose that preceded ripe, juicy berry fruit flavors. Though slightly jammy, it countered with lip-smacking acidity on the finish (88 points, non-blind). It was perfect with the rabbit.

Or maybe I was just happy to be back in Piedmont.

WineSpectator.com members: Get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated Barberas from Italy's Piedmont region.