A French White to Brighten an Evening

S.A. Huët Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg 2007
Dana Nigro
Posted: December 1, 2010

One ordinary busy weekday night, my husband and I knew we wouldn't be able to finish a full bottle of wine, either that night or over the next few evenings when we wouldn’t be home. But we still wanted a glass with our dinner, so I pulled out the only remaining half-bottle from the wine fridge: the S.A. Huët Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg 2007. Perhaps at $23 a half-bottle, it was a bit of a splurge for the complete lack of occasion, but fortuitously, a Chenin Blanc would serve well for our meal of spaghettini with shrimp and red chile flakes.

S.A. Huët is one of the best producers in the Loire Valley appellation of Vouvray, making dry, off-dry and sweet wines from three vineyards: Le Haut-Lieu, Le Mont and Le Clos du Bourg. The domaine has long farmed biodynamically (though the back label said “organically”.) Though 2007 was a tricky vintage in the Loire, the dry Clos de Bourg was redolent with ripe peach, apple, pear and melon, and touches of beeswax and summer blossoms. The Chenin’s round, rich flavors were enlivened by a tangy streak of acidity, which provided a refreshing counterpoint to the heat of the chile, and mineral notes that complemented the seafood. 90 points, non-blind, and it made the evening feel a bit more special.

WineSpectator.com members: Get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated Chenin Blancs from Vouvray.

Learn more about the Loire Valley in Wine Spectator magazine's recent tasting report The Loire's Sweet Savior and travel feature On Chenin's Trail in the Loire.

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