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Senior Tim Fish joined the Wine Spectator staff in 2001. His tasting beat includes U.S. sparkling wine, and California Zinfandel and Merlot.
Tim Fish

A Lively Value Red from Spain

Altovinum Evodia Garnacha Calatayud 2009

Tim Fish
Posted: October 18, 2010

Bon marché. Affare. Barato. However you translate it, “value” is a word that all wine lovers can appreciate, especially when your wine-buying budget is faced with the arrival of wineries’ fall mailing lists. So my wife brought home an appropriate bottle the other night. It had just one word on the front label: Evodia. I’d never heard of it and had no idea what the name meant, but it was from Spain and we felt we had been in a rut drinking too many California wines. At $9 a bottle, the price was right.

What a delicious red it turned out to be, bright and zesty with floral cherry and blackberry fruit and spicy, minerally notes. I gave it 88 points, non-blind. A company named Altovinum produces Evodia, which turns out to be Greek for “aroma.” This wine is 100 percent Garnacha (Grenache) from old vines planted at altitudes of 2,400 to 3,000 feet in the mountains of the Calatayud region. It was aged entirely in stainless steel, which keeps the fruit fresh and racy. Forget some of those fall mailers, I decided, I’m getting a case of this.

WineSpectator.com members: Get previous scores and tasting notes for other good value Garnacha from Spain.

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