Although the New York outpost of Eataly—the massive Italian food hall that’s a collaboration among founder Oscar Farinetti and New York restaurateurs Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich and Lidia Bastianich—opened at the end of August, I waited to visit until the first weekend in October, in hopes of avoiding the masses. The multitudes were still present, but my frustration over the crowd was quickly overcome by my delight at seeing shoppers walking around with a glass of Italian wine in hand and plenty of places to sit down and enjoy good Italian wine and food.
After an afternoon of taking in this homage to all things Italian and enjoying a bite at Eataly’s Le Verdure restaurant, my boyfriend and I settled into the bar at Manzo Ristorante. On their by-the-glass list, I discovered a label from Conti di Buscareto in the Marche area of Italy, a new producer for me. Its 2008 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi ($11 a glass) was fresh, with crisp acidity structuring the wine and juicy flavors of stone, white peach, fig and smoke. This white was an excellent aperitif wine, and I scored it 89 points, non-blind.