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A French White That Goes Against the Grain

Patrick Javillier Bourgogne White Cuvée de Forgets 2006
Harvey Steiman
Posted: September 28, 2010

Plain old Bourgogne Blanc—made from all the bits and parts that don’t fit into Burgundy's more expensive premier cru and village bottlings, which carry specific place names—can still deliver welcome charm.

Going against the Burgundian impulse to emphasize specific sites, the Meursault-based domaine Patrick Javillier actually specializes in blending different sites to make Meursault-appellation cuvées that it deems more interesting than the single-vineyard parcels would make on their own. The 2006 Bourgogne White Cuvée de Forgets bottling (which retails for about $22) uses grapes from two sites near but not in the Meursault appellation—Les Herbaux and Les Vaux. The result is a lovely bottling that has developed some extra depth with a couple of years’ age. It has retained its zippy acidity but added some flesh to the minerally pear and floral flavors, with just a hint of toast from the oak, perfect for fresh seafood. 88 points, non-blind. members: Get our quick list of Top Values among white Burgundy, for $30 or less.

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