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Managing editor Kim Marcus joined Wine Spectator in 1988. His tasting beats include Austria, Greece, southern France and Portugal.
Kim Marcus

A Rich White Made from Chenin Blanc

Domaine du Petit Métris Savennières Les Fougeraies 2007

Kim Marcus
Posted: September 16, 2010

Savennières is a tiny appellation in France’s Loire Valley that can make amazing wines from the Chenin Blanc grape. I’ve liked these wines, despite their scarcity, ever since I tasted the profound dry Chenins made by its most famous producer, Nicolas Joly.

Recently, I had the good fortune to enjoy a Savennières from a high-quality producer who has recently entered the American market, Joseph Renou et Fils. Joseph’s sons, Pascal and Hervé, now run the family-owned estate, Domaine du Petit Métris. I drank their dry bottling made from grapes grown in the Les Fougeraies vineyard, which features schist-based soils topped by a layer of sand and silt.

It is a structured white carrying the hallmarks of fine dry Chenin—powerful and somewhat dense flavors of quince, apple, glazed citrus and mineral. The finish was ripe, with notes of fennel. It was a perfect match for a dinner that featured potato gnocchi and basil pesto, with Arctic char, cherry tomatoes and extra pignoles. I rated it 90 points, non-blind, and it costs $30 a bottle. members: Read the blind-tasting reviews for other wines from Domaine du Petit Métris.

• Plus, get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated Savennières.

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