In my never-ending quest to find wines that go well with true Italian-style, thin-crust, delicately topped pizza, what better choice than a wine from the very region that perfected the pie? That would be Campania, home to Naples, the epicenter of the Neapolitan treasure that is pizza.
Checking out Bruce Hill’s new San Francisco pizzeria, Zero Zero, I spied Feudi di San Gregorio’s Aglianico Irpinia Rubrato 2006 on the list. Normally Aglianico would not be my first choice, as it usually makes a sturdy, somewhat tannic red. But this bottling sees no oak in the winemaking process and is made in a lighter style. I am partial to Feudi’s white wines, so this one seemed like a good bet.
The floral, wet earth overtones gave the wine’s charming raspberry and wild plum flavors some serious intent. A thin layer of tannins provided just the right amount of grip to balance nicely with both the classic margherita pizza and a house specialty called the Castro, which features thin slices of sopressata and a spicy housemade sausage.
The wine was so inviting, the four of us nearly drained a bottle before the pizzas got there. At $40 on the list, it was worth getting another. 88 points, non-blind.
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