I decided to start dinner recently with peak-of-the-summer ripe heirloom tomatoes presented as simply as possible: slices of the orange, red and yellow tomatoes on a plate dressed with nothing but a splash of extra-virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of sea salt. (No balsamic vinegar, thank you very much, which would overpower the gorgeous flavor of the tomatoes.) And leave the mozzarella and basil for a more substantial meal.
With something so simple, I sought a light, minerally white wine, and found it in Antinori's Vermentino Bolgheri Tenuta Guado al Tasso 2007. Vermentino is not the most widely known or highly appreciated grape variety. Even in Italy, its home, it makes way too many mediocre bottles. But the good ones, mainly from Tuscany and Sardinia, offer the kind of refreshing zing that gets a summer meal started in style.
This one had it. The mineral undertones weave through flavors of green apple and green melon. The lively acidity gives the medium-bodied wine a lift. 87 points, non-blind. Simple and classy.
WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review for Antinori Vermentino Bolgheri Tenuta Guado al Tasso 2007 (86, $21 on release).
• Plus, get our quick list of Top Values among Italian whites.