I have always been a huge fan of the Barolos from Paolo Scavino. Often lumped in with the “modern” wing in the Langhe, this Italian estate always struck me as closer to the middle of the spectrum, more akin to Aldo Conterno than Angelo Gaja. And yes, the wines deserve to be spoken of in the same breath. Some friends dining with me in Seattle at Cafe Juanita, one of America’s great Italian restaurants, ordered a bottle of Scavino’s Carobric 2001 off the list, and I was eager to try it.
Carobric is a blend of three classic sites: Rocche di Castiglione, Cannubi and Bric dël Fiasc. Scavino selects certain barrels for the single-vineyard wines from each of those sites, and the rest is eligible for the Carobric. It costs less than the single-vineyard cuvées but a bit more than the regular Barolo (which has other vineyards in the blend).
The ripe 2001 vintage was highly regarded. Nine years on, the wine shows gorgeous plum and blueberry fruit and swaths of licorice and tar. The finish doesn’t quit. It’s plush in texture but stands up straight, like a Barolo should. It feels like it’s just coming into its own. And it tasted great with my tagliatelle Bolognese, made with grass-fed locally grown wagyu beef. 93 points, non-blind, for the wine (and 95 points for the pasta dish).
WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review and get the current auction price for Paolo Scavino Barolo Carobric 2001 (93, $90 on release).
• Plus, get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated Barolos, from Italy's Piedmont region.
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