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Sweet Evening, Smooth Red

Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007
Thomas Matthews
Posted: August 6, 2010

On my annual family vacation in Edisto Beach, S.C., I normally gorge on shrimp and grouper and drink a lot of light, crisp white wines. But on a recent evening, our friends Fisher and Cindy Walter took us on a boat cruise where we enjoyed Champagne and pimento cheese spread while the sun set and dolphins gamboled off the stern.

When we got to the Old Post Office, Edisto’s most ambitious restaurant, some of us were ready for heartier fare. I met chef Philip Bardin when he cooked at New York’s James Beard House as a guest chef back in the mid-1990s, and his “new-wave” Southern cuisine was attracting lots of media attention. Now dishes like his pecan-crusted quail, or “firecracker flounder,” a fillet fried with jalapenos, have entered the mainstream, and the restaurant has settled into a comfortable groove.

A few of us ordered rib eye steaks served with grits and stewed crowder peas, and we splurged on the restaurant’s best red wine, a 2007 Châteauneuf du Pape from Domaine du Vieux Lazaret. A reasonable $70 on the list, it tasted like all the colors of a low-country sunset, and harmonized beautifully with the beef. I rated it 90 points, non-blind. members: Read the original blind-tasting review for Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007 (89, $36).

• Plus, get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated Châteauneuf-du-Pape reds.

Member comments   2 comment(s)

David Tam — los angeles, ca, u.s. —  March 13, 2011 7:40pm ET

amazing sir!

to showcase your glottunous ways and call this wine "reasonable" in this world recession is just absurd.

winespectator subscribers would be made right and entitled to an apology plus refunded a small amount as good faith.

mr shanken, please please take note.

los angeles

Thomas Matthews — New York City —  March 14, 2011 9:07am ET


First of all, I'm impressed and flattered that you found this article, originally posted back in August, 2010. And I thank you for taking time to post your thoughts.

The Chateauneuf I enjoyed with friends -- and paid for with personal funds, I might add -- originally retailed for $36, according to our database, so I do consider a $70 restaurant price "reasonable" in terms of customary mark-up. I also found it reasonable for the amount of pleasure and interest it delivered.

If you read many of these little mementos of wines enjoyed, you'll see their prices vary greatly, from less than $10 to many hundreds. What amount do you consider "reasonable" to pay for a bottle of wine?

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