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Executive editor Thomas Matthews joined Wine Spectator in 1988. His tasting beat is Spain.
Thomas Matthews

Airplane Wines, High and Low

J. & F. Lurton Malbec Mendoza 2007

Thomas Matthews
Posted: July 27, 2010

On a recent flight home from California, I indulged myself in an upgrade to business class, and experienced the highs and lows of airline wine.

The flight attendant brought a glass of white wine the color of honey, and almost as thick. “It’s very rich,” he said, but to my taste it was dull and baked. I asked how long it had been opened; he said he had just uncorked it and brought the bottle: an Argentine Torrontés, vintage 2007. It would probably have been much better two years ago.

Then came the red, a 2007 Malbec from the French winemaking brothers Jacques and Francois Lurton. Much better! Bright and juicy, an easy-drinking wine that brightened the rather overcooked beef filet served for lunch. I had a second glass, settled back into that big, comfy seat, and rated it 88 points, non-blind.

WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review for J. & F. Lurton Malbec Mendoza 2007 (85, $9).

• Plus, get our quick list of Top Values among Argentine reds for $25 or less.

Anthony Giglio
New York, NY —  July 27, 2010 9:48am ET
Tom: Which airline?
Thomas Matthews
New York City —  July 27, 2010 4:38pm ET
I'm sure this situation occurs with depressing frequency on every airline. If any frequent business-class travelers can endorse one airline in particular for the quality and consistency of its wine offerings, I'd love to know about it.

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