On a recent flight home from California, I indulged myself in an upgrade to business class, and experienced the highs and lows of airline wine.
The flight attendant brought a glass of white wine the color of honey, and almost as thick. “It’s very rich,” he said, but to my taste it was dull and baked. I asked how long it had been opened; he said he had just uncorked it and brought the bottle: an Argentine Torrontés, vintage 2007. It would probably have been much better two years ago.
Then came the red, a 2007 Malbec from the French winemaking brothers Jacques and Francois Lurton. Much better! Bright and juicy, an easy-drinking wine that brightened the rather overcooked beef filet served for lunch. I had a second glass, settled back into that big, comfy seat, and rated it 88 points, non-blind.
WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review for J. & F. Lurton Malbec Mendoza 2007 (85, $9).
• Plus, get our quick list of Top Values among Argentine reds for $25 or less.