I enjoyed many fine meals during a week in California in June, but the most refined, complex food and the most complete dining experience was delivered by the Restaurant at Meadowood.
The setting and service are serene and polished, a classically wine-country ambience of casual sophistication. It’s a perfect canvas for chef Christopher Kostow and his team, a harmonious setting for the menu’s highly worked, yet beautifully harmonious dishes.
Yet it’s not all whispers. On my tasting menu, the main course of suckling pig offered the meat in four variations, accompanied by three kinds of seaweed from Mendocino, and striking salted cherries. Bold flavors ranged from savory to gamy to sweet—delicious but, I feared, a difficult match for wine.
Sommelier Rom Toulon, choosing from an 11,000-bottle cellar stocked with 1,100 labels, had no problem: a big, juicy Zinfandel from Howell Mountain. The 2007 Outpost was a fruit bomb, yet deep and intense, with tar and licorice accents. It was great with the dish, and especially clicked with those salted cherries. I rated it 93 points, non-blind.
WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review for Outpost Zinfandel Howell Mountain 2007 (91, $45).
• Plus, get our quick list of Top Values among California Zinfandel.