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My colleague Kim Marcus and I had lunch at Savoy recently. The wine list is full of interesting country wines that accompany chef Peter Hoffman’s market-fresh menu.
On this day, we started with a French white from Cassis, a tiny appellation of less than 500 acres in Provence that perches on the Mediterranean Sea between Marseille and Bandol.
Made primarily from Ugni Blanc, this white ($42 on the list) showed fresh floral, straw, quince and green fig aromas. Medium- to full-bodied in weight, its flavors of ripe melon and quince were tempered by a touch of grapefruit peel on the finish. Its profile did not get in the way of my salad of dandelion and anchovy vinaigrette with Grana Padano, yet was ample enough to stand up to Marcus’ fried duck livers and buttermilk sauce. I gave the wine 88 points, non-blind.
WineSpectator.com members: Get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated whites from Provence.
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