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Editor at large Harvey Steiman joined Wine Spectator in 1983; his tasting beats are Australia, Oregon and Washington.
Harvey Steiman

A Red Burgundy with the Right Background

Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne 2006

Harvey Steiman
Posted: June 9, 2010

Burgundy, I firmly believe, is a minefield best traversed by seeking out good producers. Vintage matters, too, of course. And so does appellation, but you can get yourself into trouble choosing wines that carry famous vineyard names if you don’t first make certain the vintner has the pedigree.

I was reminded of this after drinking some Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne 2006, with great pleasure, along with pan-roasted chicken with morel mushrooms at Spago Beverly Hills recently. Fourrier, a long-established domaine that fell off the radar in the 1980s, has been going strong since Jean-Marie Fournier took over the winegrowing in the 1990s. He honed his craft working for the legendary Henri Jayer in Burgundy and Domaine Drouhin in Oregon. Pedigree, indeed.

This Gevrey played its gorgeous blueberry and currant fruit against hints of wet earth and stone, but what I really loved was the Pinot Noir’s texture. It felt like silk against my tongue. That’s what I want in Burgundy. 91 points, non-blind.

WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review for Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne 2006 (91, $65).

• Plus, get our quick list of Top Values in red Burgundy.

Chris A Elerick
Orlando, FL —  June 9, 2010 3:39am ET

how was your experience at Spago? I ate there in April and it was some of the worst service I've ever received. The food was decent but forgettable. The wine list was extensive but offensively overpriced. Of all the great places in Beverly Hills, I was thoroughly disappointed with Spago.
Stephen Kahn Law Offc
Los Angeles, Cal USA —  June 9, 2010 9:11pm ET
Harvey, I am curious about your answer. My office is in B.H. and I eat at Spago on a regular basis. I find it to be very consistant and often fantastic. Another plus is the wine service. As is the custom around here, if you have good wines it is normal to bring them and pay the corkage. I am always welcomed and treated great. Perhaps it helpsthat it is my custom to always sharing something memorable with the wine service staff. Part of the joy of great wine is sharing. How was your experience?
Harvey Steiman
San Francisco, CA —  June 9, 2010 9:38pm ET
Based on my experience, Chris, "worst service" is not a phrase I would have expected to be applied to Spago BH. They know me there, of course, so I try to notice how they're treating everyone else, and it's usually as the writer from Stephen Kahn Law Office describes. At a place like Spago, mentioning what specifically has disappointed you usually will elicit an apology and something extra on the spot to make up for it.
Chris A Elerick
Orlando, FL —  June 9, 2010 11:12pm ET

thanks for the response! You certainly know your fine dining, so I won't write them off just yet. I did have an outstanding bottle of 2004 Sherwin Family Cabernet Sauvignon.
Stephen Kahn Law Offc
Los Angeles, Cal USA —  June 10, 2010 12:41am ET
Chris, Harvey is right, do not write them off. On your next trip to the Los angeles area email them before hand, and let them know about your past experience. I expect you will find that they will go out of their way to make you more than comfortable. Spago B.H. Is really a special place. Give it another chance. My guess is you will walk away with a big smile on your face. If you bring a bottle and then order off the wine list I suspect you will not even have to pay a corkage. Stephen

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