Burgundy, I firmly believe, is a minefield best traversed by seeking out good producers. Vintage matters, too, of course. And so does appellation, but you can get yourself into trouble choosing wines that carry famous vineyard names if you don’t first make certain the vintner has the pedigree.
I was reminded of this after drinking some Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne 2006, with great pleasure, along with pan-roasted chicken with morel mushrooms at Spago Beverly Hills recently. Fourrier, a long-established domaine that fell off the radar in the 1980s, has been going strong since Jean-Marie Fournier took over the winegrowing in the 1990s. He honed his craft working for the legendary Henri Jayer in Burgundy and Domaine Drouhin in Oregon. Pedigree, indeed.
This Gevrey played its gorgeous blueberry and currant fruit against hints of wet earth and stone, but what I really loved was the Pinot Noir’s texture. It felt like silk against my tongue. That’s what I want in Burgundy. 91 points, non-blind.
WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review for Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne 2006 (91, $65).
• Plus, get our quick list of Top Values in red Burgundy.