Burgundy, I firmly believe, is a minefield best traversed by seeking out good producers. Vintage matters, too, of course. And so does appellation, but you can get yourself into trouble choosing wines that carry famous vineyard names if you don’t first make certain the vintner has the pedigree.
I was reminded of this after drinking some Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne 2006, with great pleasure, along with pan-roasted chicken with morel mushrooms at Spago Beverly Hills recently. Fourrier, a long-established domaine that fell off the radar in the 1980s, has been going strong since Jean-Marie Fournier took over the winegrowing in the 1990s. He honed his craft working for the legendary Henri Jayer in Burgundy and Domaine Drouhin in Oregon. Pedigree, indeed.
This Gevrey played its gorgeous blueberry and currant fruit against hints of wet earth and stone, but what I really loved was the Pinot Noir’s texture. It felt like silk against my tongue. That’s what I want in Burgundy. 91 points, non-blind.
WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review for Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne 2006 (91, $65).
• Plus, get our quick list of Top Values in red Burgundy.
Chris A Elerick
Orlando, FL — June 9, 2010 3:39am EThow was your experience at Spago? I ate there in April and it was some of the worst service I've ever received. The food was decent but forgettable. The wine list was extensive but offensively overpriced. Of all the great places in Beverly Hills, I was thoroughly disappointed with Spago.
Stephen Kahn Law Offc
Los Angeles, Cal USA — June 9, 2010 9:11pm ETHarvey Steiman
San Francisco, CA — June 9, 2010 9:38pm ETChris A Elerick
Orlando, FL — June 9, 2010 11:12pm ETthanks for the response! You certainly know your fine dining, so I won't write them off just yet. I did have an outstanding bottle of 2004 Sherwin Family Cabernet Sauvignon.
Stephen Kahn Law Offc
Los Angeles, Cal USA — June 10, 2010 12:41am ET