Recently, my wife and I dined at Colicchio & Sons near Manhattan’s Meatpacking District. It was a beautiful spring evening, so we walked from our neighborhood. The first thing that struck me was the number of people in the area of 10th Avenue and 14th Street. Ten or 12 years ago, it would have been empty, but the Chelsea Market, High Line and new hotels and restaurants on the west side are drawing crowds.
We had tried to reserve a table in the dining room, but only the Tap Room was available at the time we wanted. As it turned out, this was ideal; the Tap Room had numerous appetizers with spring ingredients that looked very appealing.
So appealing in fact, we settled on five: Roasted Shishito peppers with wildflower honey; baby beets with black olives, lovage and yogurt; octopus terrine with sugar snap peas, chorizo and pickled ramps; English pea soup with lardons and Aleppo (a variety of pepper); and burrata with garlic scapes and asparagus.
To match this wide array of flavors, I chose the Bruno Clair Marsannay Rosé 2008 ($51). For his rosé, a specialty of Marsannay, Clair presses one-third of the grapes immediately, leaving two-thirds to macerate on the skins anywhere from one to three days. The two cuvées are blended and fermented dry.
Medium pink in color, the wine’s aromas of cherry and berry were discreet and reserved. It was firm and dry on the palate, offering the essence of berry and spice, with a hint of tannins on the lingering finish. 88 points, non-blind.
WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review for Bruno Clair Marsannay Rosé 2008 (85, $24).
• Plus, get our quick list of Top Values among rosés.