A Steely Spanish White

Bodegas Abanico Godello Valdeorras Tempestad 2009
Thomas Matthews
Posted: May 26, 2010

On a recent visit to Boston, I ate at Toro, a lively Spanish restaurant in the South End. Tables spill onto the sidewalk, filled with young customers attracted by the strong, traditional flavors, the easy prices (most of the menu items are $15 or less) and the all-Spanish wine list that covers all the traditional and emerging regions of that rapidly developing country.

I chose a clean, subtle white made from the obscure, indigenous Godello grape. It thrives in the Valdeorras region, which is located in Galicia, the cool, green, northwestern corner of Spain. The wine, priced at a reasonable $38 on the list, is made in a modern style, partly cool-fermented in stainless steel to preserve freshness, partly barrel-fermented to add complexity. We liked the bright citrusy fruit flavors and the firm mineral background of the wine; it went very well with zesty clams in a light garlicky broth and the more powerful flavors of mussels cooked with chorizo and cider. I rated it 89 points, non-blind.

WineSpectator.com members: Read blind-tasting reviews of other wines from Bodegas Abanico.

• Plus, get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated Godello whites from Spain, along with our quick list of Top Values among Spanish whites.

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