Check out the new, mobile-friendly!

A French White and an Italian Red for a Rainy-Day Lunch

A 2006 Savagnin from the Jura and a 2003 Barbaresco
Bruce Sanderson
Posted: May 4, 2010

On a rainy Sunday recently, I stopped into the Tavern at Gramercy Tavern. It’s the one place in my neighborhood that offers dishes other than the typical brunch fare on Sunday along with a solid list of wines by the glass to pair with them.

For my first course of fish croquette with heirloom beans, arugula and lemon, I chose the Annie & Philippe Bornard Savagnin Côtes de Jura Les Chassagnes Ouillé 2006 ($15 a glass). The Savagnin grape variety is native to Frace’s Jura region, and at the small domaine run by Annie and Philippe Bornard, it is made in a non-oxidized style (ouillé, meaning that the wine has been topped up in barrel to prevent the voile of yeast from covering the surface and resulting in the deliberately oxidative character of the region’s vin jaune wines). Its crisp apple, straw, lemon and mineral notes were clean and refreshing, a perfect accompaniment to the fish dish. 88 points, non-blind.

For my second dish of duck confit with black lentils, rutabaga and butternut squash, I ordered Giuseppe Cortese’s Barbaresco Rabaja 2003 ($17 a glass). Ripe and slightly pruny, with plenty of tar, licorice, cherry aromas and flavors, this Piedmont red was rich and firm, with a long, dry finish echoing dried cherry, leather and tobacco notes. 90 points, non-blind. A hearty wine for a hearty plate. members: Read the original blind-tasting review for Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco Rabaja 2003 (89, $53).

• Plus, get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated Barbarescos and for more wines from the Jura.

Would you like to comment?

Want to join or start a discussion? Become a member and you can!

To protect the quality of our conversations, only members may submit comments. To learn more about member benefits, take our site tour.


= members only

Keep me logged in      Forgot Password?

Job Opportunities

Passionate about wine? Wine Spectator magazine is looking for an enthusiastic copy editor in the New York office.

Email Newsletters

Sips & Tips | Wine & Healthy Living
Video Theater | Collecting & Auctions
New! Ratings Flash | New! Unfiltered

» View samples
» Or sign up now!
» Manage my newsletter preferences


The marketplace for all your wine needs, including:

Wine Storage | Wine Clubs
Dining & Travel | Wine Auctions
Wine Shops | Wine Accessories