In mid-April, on a Sunday full of sunshine but cooler than it looked, the young hipsters in Williamsburg were strolling and smiling, defiantly shivering in slip dresses and vintage t-shirts.
Many of them had crowded into Dressler, a fine newish restaurant across the street from venerable Peter Luger’s steak house. Dressler’s embodies the best of contemporary Brooklyn culture; it connects the artisanal past with the self-aware present, with humor grounded in sincerity. The food is local, seasonal and sustainable, and the wine list, while international, adheres to the same “natural” principles.
It was the perfect occasion for a rosé, and wine director Steven Morgan offers an excellent Provençal version from Domaine de Triennes, an estate in the Var owned by Jacques Seysses, founder of Domaine Dujac, and Aubert de Villaine, co-owner of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. The wine is made by enologist Rémy Laugier from sustainably grown, old-vine Cinsault. It was elegant and silky, with subtle, fresh flavors of berries and watermelon. A generous glass cost $11. I rated it 88 points, non-blind, and toasted the arrival of spring.
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