Since my wife, Sara, and her mother, Nancy, are from the South, we cooked a ham for Easter dinner this year, glazing it with citrus and molasses and serving it with roasted new potatoes and asparagus with Nancy’s Hollandaise.
We drank two Rieslings, one German, the other Austrian. The German, a 2008 spätlese from the Rheingau, was brilliantly fruity, with vivid acidity and noticeable sweetness. It was lovely, but never really settled into the match with the juicy, smoky ham. Or maybe we just weren’t used to the style.
The Austrian version, a 2007 trocken from producer Kurt Angerer in the Kamptal region, was delicious on its own and with the meal. It was fruity yet dry, with a rich texture and crackling acidity, with a savory herbal note that bridged the meat and the asparagus. I rated it 93 points, non-blind. We all agreed we should try Rieslings more often.
WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review for Kurt Angerer Riesling Qualitätswein Trocken Kamptal Ametzberg 2007 (93, $30).
• Plus, get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated Austrian Rieslings.