I didn’t much like the first taste of Château de Candale 2005. The St.-Emilion, offered at $15 a glass at my local wine bar, showed little grace initially. But knowing this red was from a good producer in a celebrated vintage for Bordeaux, I did not give up on it. Over the half hour or so that I nursed the glass, the Merlot-based blend (with 20 percent Cabernet Franc) got fleshier and rounder and delivered more fruit.
Patience pays. An array of nice nibbles didn’t hurt, either, but the wine opened up demonstrably. The tight tannins softened, and the cedary flavors faded into a mineral edge that gave the blackberry and currant flavors welcome depth. 88 points, non-blind.
WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review for Château de Candale St.-Emilion 2005 (89, $35).
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