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During a recent trip to Burgundy, I had dinner at Le Comptoir des Tontons, a restaurant and wine retailer in Beaune. The cuisine focuses on organic ingredients from local farms.
The wine list is good, but the interesting premiers crus and grands crus Burgundies are expensive, despite Les Tontons’ reasonable pricing.
So, for my main course of blood sausage, I ordered a Beaujolais. I had recently enjoyed a Marcel Lapierre Morgon 2005 from my own cellar and saw a 2005 Morgon from Jean Foillard for $50 on the list.
Foillard makes artisanal wines from one of the best parts of Morgon, Côte de Py. This label, Cuvée 3.14, is a play on words, derived from both the mathematical constant pi and the origin of the grapes on the Côte de Py. It comes from Foillard’s oldest vines, whose average age is more than 90 years. After maturing in older oak barrels for six to nine months, the red is bottled unfiltered.
The Beaujolais had bright aromas of cherry with an appealing, tart, mineral edge. Rich and juicy, its texture was dense, with light tannins and a concentrated finish. I gave it 91 points, non-blind.
• Plus, read more about the 2005 vintage in Beaujolais.
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