“Bring up something easy to drink,” my wife said as I headed down to the cellar, “so we can sip it while we watch the figure skating.” Knowing her tastes, she did not want something froufrou, despite the ice-skating reference. She likes ripe reds, so I headed for the Shiraz section and plucked a bottle of Mollydooker Shiraz South Australia The Boxer 2006.
I had an ulterior motive. Nearly four years old, the bottle should demonstrate whether this winery’s entry-level reds could age. Big Aussie reds like Mollydooker’s have come in for considerable flak these days because they’re not supposed to age. This one wasn’t designed for the cellar, but three-and-a-half years after bottling it had tamped down some of its youthful baby fat and become a lovely, spicy, meaty glass of red.
It had aged nicely, its berry and cherry flavors coalescing well with the smoky, peppery nuances that were there originally. It wasn’t doing any quads, but it glided as smoothly as Evan Lysacek. 90 points, non-blind. And darned if those skaters weren’t even more impressive after a couple of glasses.
WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review for Mollydooker Shiraz South Australia The Boxer 2006 (90, $20).
• Plus, get our quick list of Top Values among recently rated Australian reds.