On another day of our trip to Maui (see my blog and last week’s pick), we dined at Pacific'O, James MacDonald's restaurant facing the beach in Lahaina. Most of the flavors coming to the table in the food involved Asian characteristics—a little bit sweet, with citrus, seafood and spices predominant. I cracked the wine list and immediately gravitated toward the Rieslings. Light, often a bit sweet themselves, and unsullied by oak, Rieslings are fun to drink on their own and match up well with this style of food.
Our server suggested Graff Riesling Mosel Kabinett 2007, from Germany, on the list at $32. It promised the best balance of fruit and not too much sweetness for the food. Wine Spectator hasn’t recently rated any Graff wines, but we decided to take a chance. The texture was soft and the flavors brimmed with peach and apricot. There was a touch of wet slate on the finish. I would have liked a tad more acidity, but the wine performed admirably with our various fish dishes. We liked it so much we ordered a second bottle. I rated it 87 points, non-blind.
WineSpectator.com members: Get our quick list of Top Values among German Rieslings.