Check out the new, mobile-friendly!

A French Red for an Evening by the Fire

Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Samorëns 2006
Thomas Matthews
Posted: January 22, 2010

Is Applewood the perfect restaurant? It’s certainly a terrific addition to the Park Slope neighborhood in Brooklyn, where I live. I ducked in for a quick dinner on my way home recently, and had a perfectly lovely time.

Chef David Shea and his wife, Laura, opened the restaurant in 2004, in a small building tucked on a quiet side street, to offer new American cuisine based on seasonal and local ingredients. The dining room, which seats about 30, feels like a comfortable farmhouse, and a roaring fire warms it with a rural charm.

I ordered grass-fed skirt steak served over steamed greens and a rutabaga puree. The beef was so tender I thought it had been cooked sous-vide, but David told me it was simply pan-roasted, testimony to the quality of the meat. Yet it still had the herby, sanguine tang I enjoy so much in grass-fed animals. Those flavors harmonized beautifully with a glass of Ferraton's Côtes du Rhône, which offered deep plum, licorice and garrigue flavors, firm but with a subtle opulence ($9 per glass; $43 for a bottle on the compact, well-chosen list). I rated it 88 points, non-blind, and reminded myself to return to Applewood soon. members: Read the original blind-tasting review for Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Samorëns 2006 (87, $11).

• Plus, get our quick list of Top Values among reds from France's Rhône Valley.

Member comments   6 comment(s)

Gary Fritzhand — Houston, Texas —  January 22, 2010 5:35pm ET

I'm a bit curious about the price of the wine. At $43 a bottle it's only slightly under four times the $11 release price. That's a 400% profit for the restaurant over a two or three year period.

Brian Seal — Bentonville, Arkansas, USA —  January 23, 2010 1:41pm ET

Probably a familiar occurance in New York restaurants..Im fairly sure its like that for restaurants in general.

Thomas Matthews — New York City —  January 24, 2010 8:30pm ET

It's true that the mark-up was a bit high. But I felt I got good value out of the dining experience, all things considered. If paying $9 for a glass of wine that "should" have cost me $6 will keep a good restaurant in business, I won't mind too much.

Andy Bard — Colchester Vermont —  January 25, 2010 5:48pm ET

I think you had a typo, the 9/43 pricing didn't make sense to me. I checked the Applewood website and the actual pricing is 9/34. Glass price times 4 minus a few bucks

Kathy Dipietro — Dallas —  January 26, 2010 8:27am ET

IMHO ~ if I can find a great, off the radar, wine by the glass at a restaurant under $12 I consider it quite a bargain! I'm tired of paying $12 a glass for Sterling VC.

Thomas Matthews — New York City —  January 26, 2010 2:51pm ET

Andy, Thanks for catching that error. Maybe I had two glasses ;).

Kathy, I'm with you on this one.

Would you like to comment?

Want to join or start a discussion? Become a member and you can!

To protect the quality of our conversations, only members may submit comments. To learn more about member benefits, take our site tour.


= members only

Keep me logged in      Forgot Password?

Job Opportunities

Passionate about wine? Wine Spectator magazine is looking for an enthusiastic copy editor in the New York office.

Email Newsletters

Sips & Tips | Wine & Healthy Living
Video Theater | Collecting & Auctions
New! Ratings Flash | New! Unfiltered

» View samples
» Or sign up now!
» Manage my newsletter preferences


The marketplace for all your wine needs, including:

Wine Storage | Wine Clubs
Dining & Travel | Wine Auctions
Wine Shops | Wine Accessories