Texture is an underrated attribute in wine. It can make the difference between a nice sipper and something that caresses the palate and makes the experience of drinking it special. The texture of this Vermentino struck me the moment I took a sip, even more than the pleasant, if slightly subdued, flavors of peach, mineral and herb. Silky, polished and utterly without anything to grab onto your tongue, cheeks and throat, this white has refinement, warmth and just enough acidity in the structure—elements missing from many examples of this Italian variety.
Cantina di Gallura Vermentino di Gallura Canayli 2007 comes from the Mediterranean island of Sardinia (Sardegna), off the coast of west-central Italy. The large vineyard, more than 800 acres, is planted in granite soil and spans elevations from 1,600 to 2,000 feet. That hilly terrain may contribute to the extra class evident in this $18 wine. 88 points, non-blind.
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