Check out the new, mobile-friendly!

A Sentimental Red Burgundy

Denis Mortet Gervrey-Chambertin Au Vellé 1995
Bruce Sanderson
Posted: December 22, 2009

In 1997, I traveled to Burgundy to taste the new vintage of reds with my former colleague Per-Henrik Mansson. The young wines were tough and tannic for the most part, products of the 1995 harvest, a difficult year that struggled to achieve full phenolic ripeness.

One grower’s Pinot Noirs stood out for their beautiful fruit: The late Denis Mortet. I bought a few bottles of those ’95s and have opened them over the years. A few were disappointing, I believe because they were going through an ugly phase where the structure dominated the fruit.

The last two bottles were delicious. At Thanksgiving dinner, we shared the Gervrey-Chambertin Au Vellé 1995, a village wine from the Brochon side of the appellation. It showed a sweet, fruity bouquet of black currant, cherry, smoke and spice. Though pure, it was more straightforward on the palate, with good length and ready to enjoy. I rated it 90 points, non-blind, and I paid $42 on release. members: Read the original blind-tasting review for Denis Mortet Gervrey-Chambertin Au Vellé 1995 (92, $47).

• Plus, get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated red Burgundies, and more wines from Denis Mortet.

Would you like to comment?

Want to join or start a discussion? Become a member and you can!

To protect the quality of our conversations, only members may submit comments. To learn more about member benefits, take our site tour.


= members only

Keep me logged in      Forgot Password?

Job Opportunities

Passionate about wine? Wine Spectator magazine is looking for an enthusiastic copy editor in the New York office.

Email Newsletters

Sips & Tips | Wine & Healthy Living
Video Theater | Collecting & Auctions
New! Ratings Flash | New! Unfiltered

» View samples
» Or sign up now!
» Manage my newsletter preferences


The marketplace for all your wine needs, including:

Wine Storage | Wine Clubs
Dining & Travel | Wine Auctions
Wine Shops | Wine Accessories