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Executive editor Thomas Matthews joined Wine Spectator in 1988. His tasting beat is Spain.
Thomas Matthews

An Italian White Made Even Better by Good Service

Cantina del Taburno Falanghina Taburno 2008

Thomas Matthews
Posted: December 4, 2009

The day after Thanksgiving, we needed to get out of the house and eat something besides turkey. So we headed to Meg and Watty’s, a new American bistro in Cobble Hill, near our home in Brooklyn.

The place was packed, and our harried waiter admitted they weren’t expecting such a crowd, when he finally got to the table with the bottle of Rhône white I ordered. I must have shown my disappointment as I tasted it, because he asked if there was a problem. I said, “It’s not flawed, but it’s heavy and dull. Let’s try it, though; maybe it will be better with the food.”

But he refused. He asked me to pick something else and went straight to the cellar for the Falanghina I ordered ($42 on the list). Made by the producer Cantina del Taburno, this bright, fruity white, from Campania in southern Italy, was refreshing and food-friendly, just what we needed to perk up our jaded taste buds. I rated it 88 points, non-blind, and the excellent wine service made it taste even better.

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