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Managing editor Kim Marcus joined Wine Spectator in 1988. His tasting beats include Austria, Greece, southern France and Portugal.
Kim Marcus

A Memorable Greek White with Pesto

Domaine Spiropoulos Mantinia 2007

Kim Marcus
Posted: November 11, 2009

Memory and wine are intrinsically linked for me, and a bit like Proust’s madeleines, the aromas and flavors of certain wines can trigger remembrances of times past spent in vineyards or wineries. So it was with a sense of longing that I found myself in one of my local wine shops in Queens that features an impressive collection of Greek bottlings. I quickly searched out wines from one of the most remarkable wine regions I have ever visited: the Mantinia district in the center of Greece’s Peloponnesian Peninsula.

Because its vineyards are located upwards of 2,000 feet in altitude, Mantinia is a relatively cool grapegrowing region, with vines spreading across a majestic valley surrounded by impressive mountains that are steep, with broad scree-strewn summits. The best local grape here is Moschofilero, a white variety that makes wines that are aromatic, fresh-tasting and distinctive. One of the better producers here is Domaine Spiropoulos, and I quickly zeroed in on its 2007 Mantinia.

This wine features aromas of lemon blossom and chamomile and has flavors reminiscent of a mature German Riesling—there’s a strong minerally component to the grapefruit, lentil and crisp apple, all backed by a bracing acidity and firm structure. It was just the ticket to match with my dinner of pesto pasta, and as I savored the meal that evening, the flavors of the wine brought me back to the wild beauty of Mantinia. I rated the wine 88 points, non-blind.

WineSpectator.com members: Get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated whites from Greece.

E Papadopoulos
HERAKLION,CRETE,GREECE —  November 13, 2009 4:41am ET
YES INDEED MOSCHIFILERO VARIETY IS THE BEST OF ITS KIND IN GREECE AND DOMAINE SPIROPOULOS IS AN OLD NATIVE TRADITIONAL WINEMAKER
GLAD TO READ YOUR COMMENTS, AS FOR MANY YEARS I TRY TO PARSUADE CONSUMERS FOR ITS WORTHINESS
EVANGELOS

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