An Italian Sparkler to Counter Cured Meats

Drusian Extra Dry Prosecco di Valdobbiadene NV
Harvey Steiman
Posted: November 6, 2009

After dinner at New York’s terrific Salumeria Rosi, which reinforced that it’s called salumi because the meat is cured with salt, I wanted to drink something refreshing. Espresso would have been traditional, but instead I had a glass of Prosecco. The sparkling wine of Italy’s northeast doesn’t pretend to be Champagne; the region's vintners ferment Prosecco grapes in a tank and bottle the juice fresh and fizzy.

At $10 a glass, Drusian Extra Dry Prosecco di Valdobbiadene NV seemed a bit pricey for a bottle that retails for $15. (A bottle is $40 on the wine list.) The Drusian family has been making Prosecco since the 19th century. The current generation modernized the winemaking and went organic in the vineyards. Barely off-dry, the wine showed a nice tang of grapefruit to balance the ripe pear and jasmine aromas and flavors, finishing clean and pure. It not only lifted my spirits, it dissolved any remaining salt caking my mouth. I gave it 86 points, non-blind.

WineSpectator.com members: Get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated Proseccos, plus our quick list of Top Values in sparkling wine.

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