Before a recent baseball game in San Francisco, a winemaker from Oregon met me for dinner at Acme Chophouse, the bustling restaurant at AT&T Park that’s run by Traci Des Jardins of Jardinière. It has a friendly wine list with some smart choices on it, including the white wine I picked to get things rolling: Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon Mâcon-Bussières Le Monsard 2007.
The price on the list ($54) may seem high for a Mâcon, but the Chardonnay's steely structure and range of delicate, refined, distinctive flavors could only come from a very good Burgundian winemaker. That would be Dominique Lafon, whose Domaine des Comtes Lafon Burgundies from the Côte de Beaune go for bigger bucks. This was not an imitation Meursault, however. To use a sports analogy, it played within itself, showing finesse and a gentleness that made it utterly charming.
The Monsard had a lovely lilt of floral, citrusy aromatics and a nice bead of pear and kiwi fruit running through the light, mouthwatering frame. It also tasted fine with our first courses of heirloom tomato salad and mushroom-topped polenta. I gave it 89 points, non-blind.