You always hope your cellared wines will improve. Why else hold onto them? The Portfolio Limited Edition 1999, a Cabernet-based red that is a personal project of Robert Mondavi winemaker Geneviève Janssens, lived up to my hopes and expectations. I bought a few bottles when it was released in 2002 and have held them until the other night, when I decided it was time to give one a try.
Wow, what a treat! Dark in color, the California red's loamy earth, currant, black cherry and green olive flavors are rich and well-proportioned. The wine picked up body and depth and showed the kind of substance and concentration that promises it will age well for another decade.
The grapes came from the Hendry Vineyard in west Napa Valley; in subsequent years, Cabernet Franc from Weitz Vineyard in the Oakville subappellation has joined the cuvée. Hendry typically yields grapes of great intensity and structure, which showed in this wine. I gave it 95 points, non-blind.
WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review for Portfolio Limited Edition Napa Valley 1999 (93, $100).