A Lacy, Racy French White

Albert Mann Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Schlossberg 2007
Bruce Sanderson
Posted: September 9, 2009

There’s nothing like a good, dry Alsace Riesling to match a variety of cuisines. I particularly enjoy them when the dish includes yuzu, a Japanese citrus that resembles a lime but is more delicate in flavor.

Recently, at Corton restaurant in New York, I ordered the Albert Mann Schlossberg 2007. The Riesling was $90 on the list, reasonable given its suggested retail price of $50. I had ordered the sea bream, with chanterelles and tomato-sorrel velouté; my friend had the cod with pea risotto. The yuzu was in the appetizer, several different bites called “Taste of Summer Sea.”

Schlossberg is one of Alsace’s great terroirs, a steep slope of eroded granite that gives the resulting wines a lacy, filigree texture and soft, floral and orchard fruit flavors. Albert Mann is owned and managed by Maurice and Jacky Barthelmé. The brothers share responsibility for the vineyards and winemaking.

The ’07 tastes like Golden Delicious and Granny Smith apples, with pear, quince, floral and pine accents. It’s firm and racy, typical of the vintage, with a lacy, refined texture, impeccable balance and a long, minerally aftertaste. I gave it 93 points, non-blind.

WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review for Albert Mann Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Schlossberg 2007 (90, $50).

• Plus, get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated whites from Alsace, plus get our quick list of Easy Finds among French whites.

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