This Chablis from 2004 was another of the Burgundy whites I uncorked at Kim Marcus’ 50th birthday bash. I was interested to see how it compared with the Chandon de Briailles Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Vergelesses white.
Dauvissat is one of the region’s top growers. The Séchet parcel is part of the larger premier cru Vaillons, but Dauvissat bottles it separately. This Chardonnay is often rounder and more approachable than the domaine’s Vaillons bottling, which has more finesse and structure, yet both wines possess the steely intensity of Chablis. Dauvissat ferments the wines partly in tank and partly in barrel, with about 5 percent new oak for the premiers crus.
Round, with melon, apple, seashore brine and mineral aromas and flavors, the Chablis Séchet was well-balanced and lingered nicely on the finish. I scored it 90 points, non-blind, and paid $40 for the bottle. Ideally, it needs another two years to reach its peak.
The Chablis was more focused and fruity than the Savigny; both offered unique expressions of Chardonnay based on their soils and locations.
WineSpectator.com: Read the original blind-tasting review for Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Séchet 2004 (90, $43).