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Executive editor Thomas Matthews joined Wine Spectator in 1988. His tasting beat is Spain.
Thomas Matthews

A Great Match for Striped Bass

S.A. Huët Vouvray Sec Le Mont 2005

Thomas Matthews
Posted: August 20, 2009

On a beautiful summer evening, my wife, Sara, and I took our first stroll on the High Line, the amazing new park built on a derelict elevated railroad through lower Manhattan. Its northern terminus is now at 20th Street and 10th Avenue, where we met my brother James and his fiancée, Ashley, for dinner at Cookshop, one of my favorite “new American” restaurants in town.

Wine director Richard Luftig favors eclectic and esoteric wines that fall into the “natural” or “authentic” camp; I’m always interested in exploring his taste, but some of his selections range a bit far off the beaten path for me. This time, though, he hit the bull’s-eye. I ordered a special of wild striped bass with a gutsy stew of pork and cannellini beans, and he poured a dry Loire Valley Chenin Blanc to match, Huët’s 2005 Le Mont Sec ($84 on the list).

I loved the mix of floral and mineral notes in the wine; I gave it 90 points, non-blind. Not only did it handle the powerful flavors in the dish, but somehow it evoked the High Line, the breezy park aromatic with a juxtaposition of wildflowers and track-bed stones. Sometimes, the right wine can pull a whole evening together.

WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review for S.A. Huët Vouvray Sec Le Mont 2005 (90, $30).

• Plus, get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated Vouvrays, along with our quick lists of Top Values and Easy Finds among French whites.

Tom Hudson
Wilmington, Delaware —  August 20, 2009 10:50am ET
Great pairings are a wonderful thing, as is great company to share them with.

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