Check out the new, mobile-friendly!

A Great Match for Striped Bass

S.A. Huët Vouvray Sec Le Mont 2005
Thomas Matthews
Posted: August 20, 2009

On a beautiful summer evening, my wife, Sara, and I took our first stroll on the High Line, the amazing new park built on a derelict elevated railroad through lower Manhattan. Its northern terminus is now at 20th Street and 10th Avenue, where we met my brother James and his fiancée, Ashley, for dinner at Cookshop, one of my favorite “new American” restaurants in town.

Wine director Richard Luftig favors eclectic and esoteric wines that fall into the “natural” or “authentic” camp; I’m always interested in exploring his taste, but some of his selections range a bit far off the beaten path for me. This time, though, he hit the bull’s-eye. I ordered a special of wild striped bass with a gutsy stew of pork and cannellini beans, and he poured a dry Loire Valley Chenin Blanc to match, Huët’s 2005 Le Mont Sec ($84 on the list).

I loved the mix of floral and mineral notes in the wine; I gave it 90 points, non-blind. Not only did it handle the powerful flavors in the dish, but somehow it evoked the High Line, the breezy park aromatic with a juxtaposition of wildflowers and track-bed stones. Sometimes, the right wine can pull a whole evening together. members: Read the original blind-tasting review for S.A. Huët Vouvray Sec Le Mont 2005 (90, $30).

• Plus, get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated Vouvrays, along with our quick lists of Top Values and Easy Finds among French whites.

Member comments   1 comment(s)

Tom Hudson — Wilmington, Delaware —  August 20, 2009 10:50am ET

Great pairings are a wonderful thing, as is great company to share them with.

Would you like to comment?

Want to join or start a discussion? Become a member and you can!

To protect the quality of our conversations, only members may submit comments. To learn more about member benefits, take our site tour.


= members only

Keep me logged in      Forgot Password?

Job Opportunities

Passionate about wine? Wine Spectator magazine is looking for an enthusiastic copy editor in the New York office.

Email Newsletters

Sips & Tips | Wine & Healthy Living
Video Theater | Collecting & Auctions
New! Ratings Flash | New! Unfiltered

» View samples
» Or sign up now!
» Manage my newsletter preferences


The marketplace for all your wine needs, including:

Wine Storage | Wine Clubs
Dining & Travel | Wine Auctions
Wine Shops | Wine Accessories