Sometimes I get the overwhelming urge to drink a good white Burgundy. The problem is that I can’t afford the stratospheric prices charged for the best producers from the quality heartland, the Côte d’Or. So instead, I usually opt for the neighboring regions of Burgundy that offer high quality without the sticker shock, namely Chablis or the Mâconnais.
But I’m always on the hunt for a delicious and affordable example of what I consider the best terroir for Chardonnay in the world. On my first trip to Burgundy in the mid-1990s, I was lucky enough to visit the domaine of Marquis d’Angerville with my colleague, Bruce Sanderson. The reds (mostly Volnay) that we tasted were powerful, dense and packed with flavor. I can’t remember whether we tasted a white then, but recently I tasted a d’Angerville white that really spoke to what makes white Burgundy special for me.
First, there is the aroma. Very smoky, with hints of spice. On the first sip, the Marquis d’Angerville Meursault Santenots 2006 offered the minerality and power that makes me drool for white Burgundy. The fruit flavors are almost secondary for me, dominated by apple, ripe pear, citrus and hints of fig. The 2006 vintage offers many ripe and delicious whites, and this one shows plenty of elegance as well. I rated it 90 points, non-blind. At $60 a bottle, it's not cheap, but that is a good buy for an outstanding white Burgundy.
WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review for Marquis d’Angerville Meursault Santenots 2006 (88, $60).
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