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Senior editor and tasting director Bruce Sanderson joined Wine Spectator in 1993. His tasting beats are Burgundy in France and Piedmont and Tuscany in Italy.
Bruce Sanderson

A Summer White for Shellfish

Comte de Malestroit Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie Château La Noë 2008

Bruce Sanderson
Posted: July 22, 2009

My friend Norma was visiting New York from Buenos Aires. We both love oysters, so we arranged to meet at Aquagrill in SoHo to satiate our bivalve craving. Aquagrill has a nice little wine list, with several minerally whites suitable for their selection of more than 25 oysters.

I chose the Comte de Malestroit Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie Château La Noë 2008, for $25. Crisp and refreshing, this French white featured lemon, chive and a mineral element and good length (88 points, non-blind). It was tasty on its own, but even better with the brininess of the Kumumoto, Caraquet and Wellfleet oysters.

Muscadet, from the Loire Valley, comes entirely from the Melon de Bourgogne grape. This bottling comes from the top subappellation, Sèvre et Maine, and is made in the classic sur lie style (aged on the lees), with a slightly perceptible effervescence and bread dough note.

WineSpectator.com members: Get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated Muscadets, plus our quick list of Easy Finds among French whites.

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