California Merlot

Tim Fish
Posted: November 30, 2008

Since my last report on California Merlot ("Merlot on the Upswing," Nov. 30, 2007), I have blind-tasted more than 200 wines. While the 2004 vintage was a banner year for Merlot in both Napa and Sonoma, 2005, though offering a bounty of good drinking, is more mixed for the two regions. It is too early to judge the overall quality, but Napa has the edge so far, with a preliminary score of 87-89 on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale; of the 17 '05s rating 90 points or higher in this report, all but one is from Napa. Sonoma receives a preliminary score of 82-84 points for 2005.

Four wines lead the pack in this year's tastings, with 92-point scores. The Coho Headwaters Napa Valley 2005 ($40), from winemakers Brooks Painter and Gary Lipp, is impressive for its complex aromas of ripe plum, loam and spicy oak and its deep, focused black cherry, lead pencil and sage flavors. Veteran winemaker Heidi Peterson Barrett made the Amuse Bouche Napa Valley 2006 ($200), an intense, focused blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc that offers layered aromas of blackberry, espresso and toasty herbs.

Coup de Foudre is a newcomer, but there are recognizable names behind it: Danielle Price, wine director for Wynn Las Vegas, and John Schwartz, owner of Amuse Bouche. Their Coup de Foudre 37.2 Cuvee Napa Valley 2005 ($75) is rich and structured, with black cherry and toasty mocha aromas that lead to luscious red currant, spice and dusty, loamy flavors. Far from a newbie, Randy Lewis frequents our list of top Merlots; his Lewis Napa Valley 2005 ($75) is as tight as a drum but rich and deeply structured, showing aromas of black currant, mineral and spice, with intense blackberry, espresso and toasty oak flavors.

The 2005 growing season tested the nerves of growers and winemakers. Winter was unusually cold and soggy, and though a heat spell in March jumpstarted the season, the weather was intermittently rainy on through June. Summer temperatures rarely rose above 90° F and the rain held off until late October, the long growing season allowing for extended flavor development. Crop size was unusually large.

The 2006 season, by contrast, got off to a late start, and then temperatures rose above 100° F for a few days in July. Having not yet gone through veraison, most of the grapes were still green and hard, so sunburn damage was limited. Temperatures turned cool at harvest, and October was rainy; some winemakers picked early, while others waited out the rain hoping for more fully developed flavors.

Most of the 2006s I've sampled so far are large production, value-oriented wines, and it looks to be a good year for user-friendly Merlots. Topping the list is the Chelsea Goldschmidt Dry Creek Valley 2006 (87 points, $15), made by winemaker Nick Goldschmidt from his own 7-acre vineyard. The wine offers fresh black raspberry and toasty vanilla aromas, with cherry, anise and spicy cedar flavors. Another value—and one of the most widely available 2006s—is the Red Truck Central Coast (86, $12, 25,000 cases). It's jammy and juicy, and more complex than what you'd expect for the price, with easygoing plum, vanilla and roasted anise flavors.

2006 was so tricky a vintage that there's no predicting the quality of Merlots arriving on the store shelves in the coming year. Early signs are promising, but for now, look for the best of the 2005s and choose carefully among the available 2006s.