White Wines and Seafood for Labor Day

Say goodbye to summer with California Chardonnays and some great recipes from the sea

Laurie Woolever
Posted: August 26, 2008

Labor Day weekend marks the official end to summer, and it's a perfect time for one last casual outdoor party before the kids go back to school, the leagues start up, and the temperatures and leaves both begin to slowly drop. We've put together a handful of notes from recently-rated California Chardonnays, and three easy seafood recipes to match. Choose your favorite or make them all, supplemented with simple salads, snacks and desserts, and you've got yourself a party.

However you celebrate, we hope you have a safe and happy Labor Day!

HERB-GRILLED WILD STRIPED BASS

• 2 beefsteak tomatoes, halved and seeded
• 2 small eggplants, cut into 1/2-inch-thick bias-cut slices
• 1 zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch-thick bias-cut slices
• 1 large red onion, cut into 1-inch-thick circles
• 4 tablespoons olive oil
• 3 sprigs thyme, plus 1 tablespoon freshly chopped
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 6-ounce wild striped bass fillets
• 3 cloves garlic, sliced

Heat the grill to medium-high.

Combine the tomatoes, eggplants, zucchini and onion in a shallow bowl. Drizzle with 3 tablespoons of the oil. Add the thyme sprigs, and season with salt and pepper. Toss to coat. Grill the vegetables over direct heat until tender, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove from the grill, and reserve, keeping warm.

Season the fish with salt and pepper. Place the fillets skin-side down on aluminum foil, and top with the garlic and the chopped thyme. Seal the foil to make a pouch. Grill the fish over direct heat until the flesh is opaque, about 10 to 15 minutes, checking periodically after 7 minutes to ensure that the fish is not overcooked.

Divide the vegetables among four plates, top each vegetable bed with a fillet and serve. Serves 4.

WINE TIP: Look for a Chardonnay with some oak to complement the smoky char on the vegetables.
Recommended wines (from the list below):
BERNARDUS Chardonnay Monterey County 2006
MORRO BAY Chardonnay California Split Oak Vineyard Sur Lie 2006
SANFORD Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2006
SMOKING LOON Chardonnay California 2006

 

GRILLED SHRIMP AND CLAMS

To make the lime-butter shrimp:
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
• Juice of 2 limes
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 pound (8 to 10) jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined

Heat grill to high. Combine the butter and lime juice in a small bowl. Season, and mix well. Place the shrimp on the grill, over a hot area. Cook 3 minutes on each side, basting occasionally with the lime butter. When the shrimp is orange and opaque, remove from the grill, and serve immediately. Serves 4.

To make the clams:
• 2 dozen middleneck or cherrystone clams, scrubbed
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Heat grill to high. Place the clams over a medium-hot area, either directly on the grill or in a grill box. Cook until the shells pop open, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the grill, and serve with the melted butter alongside. Serves 4.

WINE TIP: When pairing wines with clams and an acidic sauce like the one used to baste the shrimp, the key is to avoid oak and tannin. Stick to lighter-bodied Chardonnays with plenty of citrus character.
Recommended wines (from the list below):
MIRASSOU Chardonnay Monterey County 2006
BAREFOOT Chardonnay California NV

 

EMERIL LAGASSE'S BUTTER-POACHED SHRIMP

2 pounds (20 to 30) large shrimp, peeled and deveined
• 3 tablespoons hot red pepper sauce, plus a dash
• 2 tablespoons Emeril's Original Essence spice mix
• 2/3 cup of water
• 1 pound unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 4 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 clove garlic, smashed
• 3/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1/2 bunch (1 1/2 to 2 ounces) fresh parsley, finely chopped
• 4 green onions, finely chopped
• 1 baguette, or other small, crusty loaf of fresh bread, warmed

Place the shrimp in a large glass bowl. Add 3 tablespoons of the hot sauce and the Essence, and toss to coat. Cover, and refrigerate for 1 hour, turning occasionally.

Bring the water to a boil in a large saucepan. Reduce the heat to low. Whisk in the butter, a piece at a time, until each has been incorporated. Stir in the zest, bay leaves, garlic, salt and cayenne. Add the shrimp, and cook gently, over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the shrimp are cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes.

Add the Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice and the remaining dash of hot sauce to the pan, and stir to combine. Remove from heat. Discard the bay leaves and garlic. Adjust the seasoning, if needed.

Divide the shrimp among six large, shallow bowls. Spoon the butter sauce over each portion, and garnish with the parsley and green onions. Serve with the baguette on the side. Serves 6 as an appetizer.

WINE TIP: For this dish, look for a rich, full-bodied Chardonnay that can stand up to the butter, with enough fruit to offset the heat of the sauce.
Recommended wines (from the list below):
BERNARDUS Chardonnay Monterey County 2006
MORRO BAY Chardonnay California Split Oak Vineyard Sur Lie 2006
SMOKING LOON Chardonnay California 2006

 

CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS

Rich and layered, with a complex range of fig, citrus, green apple and hints of tropical fruit folding together. Gains depth, ending with a long, fruit-driven finish. Drink now through 2011. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 21,000 cases made. —J.L.

Tropical fruit notes are tasty and effusive, with pineapple, melon and pink grapefruit flavors that are joined to a refreshing acidity. Drink now. 8,000 cases made. —M.W.

Weaves together a complex mix of earthy citrus, green apple, pear and light cedary oak flavors that are clean and refreshing. Drink now. 18,500 cases made. —J.L.

Supertangy, with vivid passion fruit, pineapple and citrus flavors that have great intensity and focus on a juicy frame. Drink now. 99,000 cases made. —M.W.

Complex and balanced, with smoky cedar, pear and green apple flavors that have a floral nutmeg scent. Drink now. 278,500 cases made. —J.L.

A bright, lemony wine, with good juicy acidity and hints of melon, spice and mandarin orange. Drink now. 498,000 cases made. —M.W.