Think Pink When you Drink on Valentine's Day

Well-priced sparkling and still rosé wines are available from regions around the world
Alison Napjus
Posted: February 12, 2003
 
 
  Still Rosé  
 
  Sparkling Rosé  
 
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  Valentine's Day 2002  
 
 

One of the most neglected styles of wine is rosé, whether still or sparkling. For many wine lovers, rosés bring to mind sweet White Zinfandel circa 1985 or fizzy pink wines relegated to wedding toasts. Many winemakers don't take rosés very seriously, either. In fact, most major Champagne houses didn't even make rosés until the 1970s. Nonetheless, many producers in wine-making regions around the world regularly bottle a rosé. And because they are overlooked, rosés typically offer great value. Still rosés across the board are some of the best bargains for a light, refreshing wine. Rosé Champagne is slightly more expensive to make than regular Champagne (and this is reflected in the bottle price), but it is still easy to find a well-priced bottle.

Regardless of origin, rosés are made one of two ways. The first involves a short maceration, or steeping, of the skins of a red grape with the juice. Once the skins of the grapes have imparted some color, they are removed and winemaking proceeds in the manner of white wines. This is the more common method for rosé production, and it is argued by some that it makes a more stable rosé.

The second method for making rosé is more basic and involves blending small quantities of a finished red wine with a finished white wine to achieve the desired hue. Although this procedure is used regularly in the rest of the world, it is prohibited everywhere in France except Champagne.

Both methods can make excellent wines. Along with the wide array of pleasing pink shades available in rosés, these wines boast many other attributes. Both capture the red fruit and berry notes that are derived primarily from red grape skins, although maceration is probably the most effective. In still rosés, you get a range of red fruit flavors, but not the weight or tannins of a red wine. In sparkling wines, the aromatics of the wine are heightened. The best versions of rosés also offer a refreshing acidity that balances a slight fruit sweetness. This makes them a delicious aperitif and, in some cases, a nice match with light foods.

It is the simple structure of most rosés that makes them easily quaffable, but most do not age well. The fruit and spice flavors rarely develop into anything complex. Most rosé aficionados would agree that these wines should be drunk young. Below, we highlight a selection of recently reviewed still and sparkling rosés. They cover a wide range of wine-producing areas, but certainly not all. Look for rosés from other regions, such as California and even South Africa. And while the wines listed below are ready to drink for Valentine's Day, newer vintages will arrive on wine store shelves for drinking this summer.

Still Rosé

Wine Score Price
ANTINORI Bolgheri Tenuta Guado al Tasso Scalabrone 2001 86 $22
Vibrant and fruity rosé, with cherry, berry and fresh herb aromas and flavors. Medium body; crisp finish. Delicious. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese. From Italy. 8,000 cases made. -- J.S.
 
CHÂTEAU ROUTAS Coteaux Varois Rosé Rouvière 2001 86 $10
Pleasant and light- to medium-bodied. Delicate flavors of dried cherry, berry and spice. Good, dry finish. Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. From France. 7,000 cases made. -- K.M.
 
LA COURTADE Côtes de Provence Rosé L'Alycastre 2001 85 $10
Good, clean rosé, with a coppery color and flavors of dried cherry and sage. Nice, uncomplicated quaff for a warm summer's afternoon. From France. -- K.M.
 
DOMAINE DE FONTSAINTE Corbières Gris de Gris 2000 85 $10
Smoky and minerally notes mix well with the dried cherry and berry flavors in this well-crafted rosé. Nice salmon color and a clean finish. From France. -- K.M.
 
E. GUIGAL Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2001 85 $10
Fresh and crisp Rosé, clean and pure, with a tart lemony character. Needs food, but the suppleness on the aftertaste makes it worth hunting down. Lingering finish. From France. 12,500 cases made. -- P.M.
 
BODEGAS GONZÁLEZ LARA Cigales Rosado Fuente del Conde 2001 85 $9
This powerful dry rosé is almost a red wine in its flavors and structure, with notes of cherries and noticeable tannins. It's big enough for food. From Spain. 5,000 cases made. -- T.M.
 
BODEGAS OCHOA Garnacha Navarra Rosado 2001 85 $9
This crisp, dry rosé offers exuberant cherry, licorice and light earthy flavors, balanced and clean. Can match with food. From Spain.,000 cases made. -- T.M.
 
DOMAINE DU POUJOL Coteaux du Languedoc Rosé 2001 85 $12
Solid rosé, with a good coppery color and flavors of berry, dried cherry and spice, with some herbal notes. Clean finish. From France. -- K.M.
 

Sparkling Rosé

Wine Score Price
NICOLAS FEUILLATTE Brut Rosé Champagne NV 90 $35
Dry, full-bodied and on the austere side, weaving dried berry and herb notes through the dense, vivid structure. Not an obvious rosé, yet it has style and intensity. From France. 2,800 cases imported. -- B.S.
 
PAUL GOERG Brut Rosé Champagne NV 89 $29
A veritable cereal factory, showing grain and oatmeal notes accented by berry and soya. Light-bodied and dry, with a berry flavor on the finish. From France. 15,000 cases made. -- B.S.
 
PIPER-HEIDSIECK Brut Rosé Champagne NV 89 $32
A vinous rosé Champagne, smelling and tasting like a mature Pinot Noir, firm, dry and sporting cherry, earth and apple notes on a medium-bodied, sinewy structure. It has personality. Good with food. From France. -- B.S.
 
GLORIA FERRER Brut Rosé Carneros NV 88 $32
Pale-salmon colored, with an elegant sense of balance, showing off a mix of ripe cherry, vanilla, strawberry and citrus. Lingering finish. From California. 1,000 cases made. -- J.L.
 
ROEDERER ESTATE Brut Rosé Anderson Valley NV 88 $26
Intense, with ripe, vibrant, elegant black cherry, strawberry and cherry-laced fruit that turns pleasantly earthy and complex on the finish. From California. 3,000 cases made. -- J.L.
 
MOUNTAIN DOME Brut Rosé Washington NV 87 $22
Has a dark salmon color, with creamy peach, berry and spice flavors that echo softly on the finish. From Washington. 700 cases made. -- H.S.
 
DOMAINE DES BAUMARD Demi-Sec Rosé Crémant de Loire Carte Corail NV 86 $14
Currant, ginger and rose petal aromas and flavors, with a hint of earth on the finish. Not too sweet, so it stays refreshing. From France. 1,700 cases made. -- J.M.
 
FERRARI Trento Rosé NV 85 $23
Full-bodied and thick, with lots of fruit and a medium finish. A bit simple. Very floral and fruity on the nose for a Rosé. From Italy. 30,800 cases made. -- J.S.
 
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