Thanksgiving Menu

The Wheatleigh's holiday menu deftly balances innovation and tradition
Laura Stanley
Posted: November 19, 2001
 
  Above: rich pumpkin soup with fig quenelles and prosciutto  
 
  Pumpkin Soup With Fig Quenelles and Prosciutto  
 
  Roasted Turkey  
 
  Rustic Apple Tarts  
 
  Thanksgiving Wine Matching Guide  
 
  Dining Out on Thanksgiving  
 
  Thanksgiving in the Berkshires  
 
  Related Link:  
 
  Harvey Steiman's Food and Wine Recipes  
 
 

There's a lot of work involved with this menu, but fear not. Read through these recipes and you'll discover that much of this food can be made days and even weeks in advance of Thanksgiving Day, leaving you to focus your full attention on your turkey, your gravy and your guests.

Pumpkin Soup With Fig Quenelles and Prosciutto
Lewis Chardonnay Napa Valley Reserve 1997

  • 1 buckskin pumpkin or 2 small pie pumpkins or an equivalent amount of butternut squash (about 3 pounds total)
  • 3 medium onions, thinly sliced
  • 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, chopped
  • 4 tablespoons butter
  • 1 quart chicken stock
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • Salt, brown sugar and freshly grated nutmeg to taste
  • Cayenne pepper if necessary
  • Four thin slices prosciutto, julienned

    Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Slice the pumpkins or squashes in half and place cut side down on a sheet pan with just enough water to cover the bottom of the pan. Bake for about an hour, or until a knife passes through easily. During cooking, add hot water to the pan as needed to prevent the bottom of the pumpkin from burning.

    Meanwhile, cook the onions, ginger and butter over very low heat in a heavy pot large enough to hold the finished soup. Cook the onions gently for about 50 minutes, until reduced in bulk, and be very careful not to let them burn.

    Scoop out the cooked pumpkin and add to the cooked onion mixture. Add the chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Puree the soup in small batches in a blender, then return it to the pot. Add the cream and reheat. If it's too thick, add more chicken stock until you reach the desired consistency. Season with salt, brown sugar and nutmeg, to taste, plus a little cayenne if desired. For a more pronounced ginger flavor, bundle some chopped fresh ginger in cheesecloth and squeeze its juice into the soup.

    When ready to serve, divide the quenelles among the bowls of soup and garnish with a sprinkling of julienned prosciutto. Serves 12.

    Fig Quenelles

  • 12 dried figs, stems removed
  • 1 tablespoon dark rum
  • 1 cup heavy cream, whipped

    Cook the figs slowly in just enough water to cover them, until only one teaspoon of the liquid remains, about 30 minutes. Puree the figs and remaining liquid, along with the rum, in a food processor until smooth. Allow the puree to cool to room temperature before gradually folding in the whipped cream. Chill this mixture until you're ready to use it. Form 24 to 36 quenelles, shaping them between two demitasse spoons.

    Roasted Turkey
    Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley La Bauge Au-dessus 1998
    Olivier Leflaive Frères Meursault 1995

  • 1 fresh, free-range organic turkey, 12 to 14 pounds
  • 1 pound kosher salt (about 2 1/2 cups)
  • 3 medium onions, cut into large wedges
  • 2 carrots, cut into chunks
  • 3 celery stalks, cut into chunks
  • 6 thyme sprigs
  • 6 parsley sprigs
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1/2 pound butter, melted

    Remove the giblets, neck and tail piece from the turkey and reserve them for gravy, if desired. Rinse the turkey inside and out with cold water. In a large pot or 5-gallon bucket, stir the salt and 1 gallon of cold water together. Carefully set the turkey into the water and cover the bird by 2 to 3 inches with cold water. Refrigerate or set the turkey in a very cold (32 to 40 degrees F) place for 8 to 12 hours.

    Remove the turkey from the brine, rinse well and pat dry with paper towels. Let it sit out at room temperature for an hour, or an hour and a half at most.

    Position a rack in the bottom of your oven and preheat to 450 degrees F.

    In a large bowl, toss together the onion, carrots, celery, thyme, parsley, bay leaf and half the butter. Pack the body and neck cavities loosely with this mixture. Truss the legs together with kitchen twine and secure the neck flap to the back with a couple of trussing pins or sturdy toothpicks. Rub the turkey with half of the remaining butter and set the bird on its side on a rack in a roasting pan. Roast it for 15 minutes, then turn it onto its other side and roast for 15 minutes more. Reduce the heat to 325 degrees F. Soak a large piece of cheesecloth (enough to cover the turkey breast) in the remaining butter, turn the turkey breast-side up and place the cheesecloth over the breast. Add 1/2 cup of water to the pan. Continue roasting, basting with pan juices every 15 to 20 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the breast registers 160 degrees F. Check a meaty section of the thigh, as well; it should also register 160 degrees F. If the breast is cooking too quickly, tent it loosely with aluminum foil. Total roasting time should be about 2 1/2 hours. Let the turkey rest for 20 to 30 minutes before carving. Reserve the vegetables in the cavity for turkey soup. Serves 10 to 12.

    Pear, Chestnut and Sage Dressing

  • 1 large onion, finely diced
  • 1 large carrot, finely diced
  • 3 stalks celery, finely diced
  • 1 pound butter, melted
  • 2 Bosc pears, peeled and diced
  • 1 cup chestnuts, peeled and chopped
  • 8 ounces breakfast sausage, cooked, drained and chopped
  • 1/2 cup or more parsley, chopped, to taste
  • 1/2 cup fresh sage leaves, chopped
  • 8 cups rustic country bread, 1/2-inch dice
  • 2 to 3 cups turkey or chicken stock
  • Salt and black pepper

    Note: Wheatleigh chef Peter Platt does not roast turkeys with stuffing in them. To get the dressing to a temperature high enough to kill off bacteria, he explains, he would have to overcook the meat. Furthermore, stuffing cooked in a brined bird tends to come out mushy and salty.

    Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Cook the onion, carrot and celery over low heat in a little of the butter until soft, about 8 minutes. Combine the pears, chestnuts, sausage, herbs and bread in a large bowl. Add enough of the rest of the butter and stock to lightly moisten the bread without allowing it to become soggy. Handle the dressing gently when mixing. Season to taste, being especially generous with the black pepper.

    Spoon the dressing into a buttered shallow baking pan and cover with foil. Bake immediately for about 45 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for an additional 15 minutes or until the temperature of the dressing reaches 160 degrees F. Serves 12.

    Truffled Giblet Gravy

  • 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 2 cups chicken or turkey broth
  • 3/4 cup heavy cream
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
  • Cooked, chopped turkey giblets
  • 2 ounces fresh, frozen or canned black truffles, finely chopped

    Combine all ingredients in a heavy pot. Bring to a boil, then simmer for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Allow the compote to cool to room temperature, then chill. Serves 12.

    Page 2


    This article appears in the Nov. 30, 2001, issue of Wine Spectator magazine, page 57.


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