Ode to a Grecian Wine
The Summer Olympics brings Greek wine to America
The Olympic games have been a part of Greek culture for over two millennia, but only in the last century has it become the modern spectacle the world tunes into every two years.
In its native land, Greek wine has been influential for more than 4,000 years, yet in the international wine community it still remains relatively undiscovered, overshadowed by far younger wine regions and veiled in a fog of tongue-twisting varietals and retsina stigma. The Greeks have been far more successful spreading running, jumping and throwing around the globe than they have the fruit of their vines.
All that is changing, say the producers, importers, retailers and restaurateurs who make and sell Greek wine, as they use this summer's Olympics as an opportunity to promote the wines in the United States.
While there are many reasons Americans have not embraced Greek wine, including inconsistent quality and unfamiliar wine styles, the wine has improved significantly in recent years and Greek importers are trying to give the wines greater visibility through marketing plans linked to this golden (and silver, and bronze) opportunity.
A lack of publicity has been another reason why Greek wine has struggled to find its footing in the United States. George Athanas, assistant director of All About Greek Wine, a consortium of wineries that promotes Greek wine in North America, said there simply isn't enough money among most winemakers to market their own labels individually. "The quality of Greek wine has increased dramatically in the last 10-15 years, and producers have invested lots of money into their vineyards and wineries," Athanas said. "But most of the producers are very small and don't have enough money left over to market their wine."
All About Greek Wine helps wineries to pool resources and organize tastings and events around the United States. In one year, the organization has seen its membership grow to 25 wineries. "Our first campaign aimed to promote the image that Greek wines are of high quality and value," Athanas said. "Our second campaign will teach people about the individual wines and grapes and how to pronounce them."
Importers and retailers agree that the hard-to-pronounce indigenous varietals -- there are hundreds, but only about 15 are commonly used -- are an intimidating roadblock for consumers when attempting to select a wine. (We've done some of the work for you: Here is a guide to Greece's popular native grapes). Konstantine Drougos, CEO of Amerikus importers in New York, said educating those who sell Greek wine is the all-important first step for the wine's success in America. "The key is to get the wine into the right shops and restaurants, where people will take the time to explain it to their employees and customers," Drougos said. Amerikus is one of several American importers and restaurants organizing tastings and events during the month of August to coincide with the Olympic games and boost awareness of Greek wine. "Greek wine has a great history, so we want it to be in the shops where people understand the wine and want to tell its story."
Costas Mouzouras, manager of New York's Gotham Wines & Liquors, keeps about 70 Greek labels on display and sees an increasing eagerness in his customers to learn more about Greek wine. "Very few of them know the native varietals, but quite of few are willing to try them and experience what Greece is all about," he said.
Mouzouras believes the Olympics will convince more wine drinkers to open their first bottle of Greek wine, but he plans on continuing to push his native country's wines long after the Olympic torch has been snuffed. "We're not promoting Greek wine just because of the Olympics this month. We're doing it because we promote every other good wine region, so why not Greece as well?"
Greek Wine Glossary
Just pronouncing the names of native Greek grapes is an Olympic feat in itself. And keeping all the varietals straight can be as confusing as the modern pentathlon. But once you master the tongue gymnastics you'll be able to order at the restaurant or wine shop with the confidence of a world-class athlete.
Here's a guide to the Greek varietals you'll encounter most often.
WHITE WINES
Assyrtiko [A-SEAR-tee-ko]
Native to the island of Santorini but planted throughout Greece, this grape retains its acidity despite the hot climate, yielding dry whites. It can also be blended with Athiri and Aidani to produce vin santo.
Athiri [Ah-THEE-ree]
Native to Santorini but planted elsewhere, Athiri is a thin-skinned grape that produces sweet wines with low acidity. Often blended.
Moschofilero [Mos-ko-FEE-le-roe]
From the region of Mantinia in the Peloponnese, the grapes have a grayish-pink hue and are blended or used to make aromatic whites redolent of fine Muscat.
Robola [Roe-BO-la]
This grape is grown exclusively on the Ionian island of Cephalonia and yield dry whites with a distinctive lemony character.
Roditis [Roe-DEE-tees]
Pinkish grape that maintains its acidity in warmer climates and produces light-bodies whites with citrus flavors. Also blended with Savatiano and other grapes to produce retsina.
Savatiano [Sa-va-tya-NOE]
Greece's most abundant white grape is grown throughout Attica and is blended to produce retsina and other white wines.
RED WINES
Agiorgitiko [Ah-yor-YEE-ti-ko]
Also known as St. George, this grape is mostly grown in the Nemea AOC in the Peloponnese. Often blended with other varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, it can be bottled as a single-varietal and is also used to make rosé.
Xinomavro [Zee-NOE-mahv-roe]
This popular Greek varietal is grown in Northern Greece and provides a rich tannic character to age-worthy blends.
Mandelaria [Mahn-dee-lar-YAH]
Also called Amorgiano, it is mainly grown on the islands of Crete and Rhodes. Sometimes bottles as a single-varietal, it is often blended with other grapes to make a variety of red wines, from dry to sweet.
Mavrodaphne [Mav-roe-THAF-nee]
Dark-skinned found in the Peloponnese and the Ionian islands. Often blended to produce a port-like dessert wine.
