For the past several years, wine bars have been springing up all over New York, giving enophiles a chance to enjoy wines by the glass, flight or bottle without the formality of the fine dining restaurant experience. New Yorkers have heartily embraced the trend, and have watched with appreciation as their favorite venues have refined their lists, their menus and, perhaps most critically, the ways in which they guarantee by-the-glass freshness, using vacuum-pump, nitrogen, or argon gas systems. Wine bars have also gained a foothold in rather unlikely places-witness the Vino Volo chain, whose latest outpost landed last year in Terminal 8 at John F. Kennedy airport, on the outer edge of Queens. Now, even some of the biggest names in New York fine dining have entered the wine bar arena.
In January 2008, chef Daniel Boulud, whose restaurant, Daniel, holds a Wine Spectator Grand Award, unveiled Bar Boulud, a casual wine bar on Manhattan's west side. Sommelier Daniel Johnnes is his partner in this venture. A short time later, Alain Ducasse, another Grand Award recipient (for his eponymous restaurants in Paris and Monaco), opened Adour Alain Ducasse at the St. Regis New York, an intensely wine-focused restaurant whose centerpiece is a four-seat interactive wine bar that combines the best of high design, straightforward wine education and cutting-edge optical technology. The latter venue offers temperature-controlled wine storage for a few lucky (and well-heeled) patrons, and both lists focus on the best of Europe while Adour also features top selections from California. Farther downtown, Marco Canora and Paul Grieco, both longtime alums of Gramercy Tavern who currently collaborate at Hearth and Insieme, opened Terroir, a wine bar whose 200 bottles and 25 by-the-glass selections are chosen "for the sense of place that they impart," according to Greico.
For New Yorkers and visitors to the city, there's never been a better time to have a great wine bar experience. Wine Spectator's editors have visited and reviewed some of the city's top wine bars, and while the list is by no means exhaustive, it's a great sampling of what this ever-more wine-minded city has to offer.
Location: 125 E. 17th St., between Irving Place and Third Avenue
Telephone: (212) 253-2773
Wine: 30 by the glass ($9-$50); more than 500 by the bottle ($25-$2,500)
Food: Spanish-style tapas with some inventive twists ($3-$12)
Ambience: Loud and tightly packed; if you don't know the person next to you at the beginning of the night, you will before it's over
|The bar, and hand-written menu, at Bar Jamón.|
The all-Spanish wine list offers nearly 30 well-chosen wines and Sherries by the quarto, a small carafe that holds about a glass and a half. Try the adventurous Descendientes de J. Palacios Bierzo Pétalos 2006 ($17/quarto, $50/bottle) for plush red and black fruit, with mineral and floral notes. The wine list also has more than 500 selections by the bottle. It features top offerings and verticals from nearly every major appellation, including nine vintages of Bodegas Vega Sicilia Ribera del Duero Unico Gran Reserva back to 1970 (starting at $580, for the 1987).
The tapas are appropriately simple. Chorizo and pickled red peppers ($9) should be in front of every guest. Marinated olives ($3), jamón Serrano ($15) and a selection of three manchego cheeses ($7) are also staples. Nusser offers small plates for those looking for something more composed. The creamy duck liver pâté with preserved apricots ($11) pairs well with both red and white wine.
Location: 2020 Broadway, at West 69th Street
Telephone: (212) 595-2805
Wine: 40 by the glass ($8-$22); 130 by the bottle ($30-$600)
Food: Classic Italian, updated with some adventurous combinations of ingredients ($6 -$27)
Ambience: A young but wine-savvy crowd on most nights fills this two-level bar. The upper level features high communal tables and a slightly more formal feel
|Patrons take advantage of the all-Italian list at Barcibo Enoteca.|
By-the-glass selections include some consistently very good value wines, such as Planeta Sicilia La Segreta White 2006 ($12) and Casanova Della Spinetta Toscana Il Nero di Casanova 2006 ($15). By-the-bottle selections range from Statti Gaglioppo 2006 ($40) and Donnas 2005 ($30) to high-end treasures like Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Roche de Falleto 1999 (96 points, $300) and Gaja Langhe Sperss 2001 (93, $400).
Perhaps even more exciting than the wines, however, are the crostini. As you walk into the upper dining room at Barcibo, the toasty aroma of grilled bread is unmistakable. Each order will get you four slices of toasted and topped bread. It's hard to go wrong with the classic baked veal meatball with tomato and fontina ($15) but the most rewarding dishes are toasts topped with shrimp and artichokes in a white wine and lemon sauce ($15) and the odd-sounding but delicious salami, gorgonzola and honey crostini ($13), a sweet, savory and pungent combination that may be tough to match with wine, but shouldn't be missed. Various risottos ($15–$19) and paninis ($12–$14) are also available.
BLUE RIBBON DOWNING STREET BAR
Location: 34 Downing St., near Bedford Street
Telephone: (212) 691-0404
Wine: 20 by the taste and glass ($3-$18); 217 by the bottle ($15-$1,155), including 42 half-bottles
Food: Eclectic, with gastropub and Mediterranean overtones ($3 -$51, for caviar)
Ambience: Small and inviting, with comfortable bar-style seating throughout; fills up quickly on busy nights
|Blue Ribbon Downing Street Bar's staff is friendly and knowledgeable.|
Blue Ribbon's diverse wine list offers both breadth and depth, and consistently highlights one or more top producers from a given appellation. Value-seekers can try the ripe, spicy Huber Grüner Veltliner "Obere Steigen" 2005 (85 points, $15) from Austria, or a half-bottle of the fresh, open-knit Domaine des Espiers Côtes-du-Rhône 2005 (85, $15). Those looking to splurge might enjoy Chateau Montelena's Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1995 (90, $380).
Despite the bar's minuscule kitchen, the menu acquits itself admirably. A snack of roasted almonds ($4) and olives ($7) will suffice for some, while others will want to tuck into one of several seafood- and meat-based plates, including a smoked duck breast, served cold ($11). Not to be missed is the excellent selection of cheeses ($15 for a plate of three) or a sweet finish with the rich and delicious chocolate-chip bread pudding ($10). Although diners can pick from a surprisingly extensive menu, the focus here is definitely on wine, and all around, the servers do an excellent job steering you in the right direction, whether you knew you were going that way or not.
CLO WINE BAR
Location: Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Circle, 4th floor
Telephone: (212) 823-9898
Wine: 2-ounce pours ($3–$98)
Food: A brief selection of charcuterie and cheese ($6–$20)
Ambience: Sleek, high-tech and upscale, in keeping with Time Warner Center's restaurant offerings
|The communal wine table at Clo Wine Bar.|
Some combination of the youthquake occurring in wine and the fact that electronic media finds its way into every field is beginning to affect the way we receive information about wine. A case in point: Clo Wine Bar in the Time Warner Center in Manhattan, run by Andrew Bradbury, formerly of Grand Award-winning Aureole Las Vegas, and other sommeliers.
The wine list at Clo is virtual. Selections are projected down onto the long communal table centering the room, and you can search a number of ways by pointing and dragging your finger through the 100 selections. It sounds complicated, but is in fact as obvious as an iPod. After a few minutes you have a glass of Sigalas Assyrtiko Santorini 2007 ($7 for 2 ounces) or Château Léoville Las Cases St.-Julien 1989 (96 points, $47) .
Then you get a card charged up, and place it in the Enomatic machines around the room, selecting your wine and getting a pour from the machine. It's like an iPhone crossed with an automat, and the effect is that curious customers play with the selection process, look around while finding their bottle, and talking to strangers throughout. This is a case where technology encourages human, face-to-face interaction.
8TH STREET WINECELLAR
Location: 28 W. 8th St. between 5th Avenue and MacDougal Street
Telephone: (212) 260-9463
Wine: 20 by the glass ($9–$17); 60 by the bottle ($29–$175)
Food: Mediterranean-accented small plates ($3–$15)
Ambience: Not overly crowded yet lively, with a young-professional clientele; rock music and simple seating keep it casual
|8th Street Winecellar inhabits a low-key space on a high-voltage block.|
8th Street's short, eclectic list offers reputable brands from solid vintages and regions (from Loire, Alsace and Rhône to Tuscany, Marlborough and Napa). If you want to splurge, try Orin Swift Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Mercury Head 2004 ($133) or a Williams Selyem Pinot Noir 2005 (87 points, $126). You'll do just as well, however, with more moderately priced selections, like the Viña Errazuriz Cabernet or Joseph Drouhin's Vero Pinot Noir 2006 ($14).
The kitchen delivers mostly small, wine-friendly options, like chicken liver pâté ($8), bacon and figs with mascarpone and aged balsamic vinegar ($9), and an excellent charcuterie plate ($15) that's substantial enough for a small crowd. The bar's vibe is always laid-back, with dim candlelight and modern rock playing at a reasonable volume. The tables, chairs and barstools are simple and the decor is limited, but all that helps keep the focus on the wine, the food and your company, right where it should be.
ENOTECA I TRULLI
Location: 122 E. 27th St.
Telephone: (212) 481-7372
Wine: 23 by the glass ($10–$24), 350 by the bottle ($24–$900)
Food: Italian antipasti ($10–$16), plus pasta and entrées ($20–$35)
Ambience: Calm enough for conversation, with a professional crowd in their early 30s to late 50s, and a playlist ranging from Sinatra to world music
|Enoteca I Trulli is a sophisticated offshoot of I Trulli restaurant.|
The wine list is exclusively Italian, with an emphasis on the south, but the selections also hop through the northern regions and Sardinia. (Most bottles can be purchased at Vino wine shop across the street, also owned by the Marzovilla family.) The friendly, knowledgeable staff will guide you through the more esoteric wines, but the four flights of three 2-ounce pours provide reasonably priced ($11-$15) samples before committing to a glass. Recent flights covered native whites, light and vibrant reds; and rich and full reds, such as La Spinona Barbaresco Faset 2000 and La Stoppa Macchiona 2003.
Start with a bowl of house-cured olives ($5) and a sampler of meats and cheeses ($15 for a choice of three, $24 for five), such as finocchiona (fennel-studded pork salame) and Pecorino Ginepro, sheep's-milk cheese rubbed with balsmaic vinegar and juniper berries. More substantial dishes come off the restaurant's regular menu, including pastas handmade by Dora Marzovilla (Nicola's mother) and homey entrées like rack of lamb ($38), grilled tuna ($30), breaded veal chop ($38) or pancetta-wrapped monkfish ($28).
Locations: 205 W. 54th St. at Broadway, and 40 E. 20th St. at Broadway
Telephone: (212) 265-5169 (midtown), (212) 529-7870 (Gramercy)
Wine: 23 by the glass ($10-$50); 150 by the bottle ($25-$4,995)
Food: Classic Champagne accompaniments, from French chocolates ($2.50 per piece) to foie gras ($25) to Osetra caviar ($345)
Ambience: A candle-lit lounge with a quiet but hip play list and a speakeasy atmosphere
|Flûte Bar was once a Prohibition-era speakeasy, run by a showgirl.|
To accompany your Champagne, Flûte offers a surprisingly large menu that includes everything from spring rolls ($8) to foie gras with caviar ($25) as well as boutique imported chocolates ($2.50 each). And for those ordering Krug by the bottle, 30-gram tins of osetra caviar are available for $345. Whatever your budget, however, Flûte offers an intimate place to relax just a short walk from the throngs of Times Square.
Location: 98 Rivington St., corner of Ludlow
Telephone: (212) 614-0473
Wine: 30 by the glass and half carafe ($7-$39); 650 by the bottle ($25-$1,499)
Food: Rustic Italian small plates, cured meats and cheeses ($3-$18)
Ambience: Casual, with a mixed clientele; low lighting, bare wooden tables and a downtown prime location attract a scene on weekends
|'inoteca is lively all day and night.|
The all-Italian wine list offers affordable choices, such as a 2005 Dolcetto d'Alba Bricco dell Oriolo ($33). Although most of the bottles clock in under $50, there are also verticals of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino Riserva and La Spinetta Barbaresco Vigneto Starderi to be had.
The service is casual, and, reminiscent of 'ino, the room can get packed at 'inoteca, especially on weekends. For those willing to sacrifice the scene for a seat, groups of six and up can reserve tables in the subterranean "cantina," which also houses the wine cellar. If you're looking to avoid the mobs altogether, know that 'inoteca opens at noon, making this a pleasant spot to grab a newspaper or a friend and while away the afternoon with a carafe and a plate of pecorino.
THE MONDAY ROOM
Location:210 Elizabeth St., between Prince and Spring Streets
Telephone: (212) 343-7011
Wine: 60 wines by the half-glass ($5–$17), glass ($9–$32), flights of three ($21–$41), half-bottle ($17–$61) or bottle ($34–$880)
Food: Composed small plates ($6–$19), five-course prix-fixe menu, $45, paired with wine, $95
Ambience: A wine bar without a bar, outfitted in dark woods and leathers; a crowd that tends to be rather serious about food and wine while still enjoying a night out
|A bust of former New York mayor John Hyland presides over the Monday Room.|
Sanz Ramiro presides over a list of 60 or so carefully chosen wines, and while there is a slight emphasis on hard-to-find selections from Australia and New Zealand, Europe's big players, and the occasional South American or South African gems also get their due. Guests looking to celebrate with a sparkler can go for a 1998 Gaston Chiquet Brut Champagne (92 points, $110), while those looking to splurge will appreciate the Clos St.-Denis Grand Cru Vielles Vignes Ponsot 1995 ($425) or 1982 Bin 95 Penfolds Grange Hermitage (92, $880).
The small plates boast unusual ingredients (ostrich neck tortelloni, for example, or grilled Kobe beef tongue, $9 each), but Farmerie can deftly balance wine compatability and shock value. While guests are welcome to create their own pairings, each small plate is available with one or more suggested pairings from the list. An all-American selection of cheeses ($13 for four selections, with bread) and a short list of desserts $5 each), including house-made chocolates, round out the menu. While it's certainly convenient to walk through a small shared lobby to Farmerie's other venue, Public restaurant, for a proper dinner, you'd do just as well to spend the entire evening eating, drinking and enjoying the Monday Room's unique take on the wine bar concept.
Location: 211 W. Broadway, corner of Franklin St.
Telephone: (212) 925-8510
Wine: 30 by the glass ($9-$20); 18 by the quartino, or 1/3 bottle ($11-$39); 24 by the bottle ($33-$78); 300 selections available at the retail store ($7-$300 plus a $15 service fee to consume a purchased bottle in the bar)
Food: Cheese, salads, cured meats and olives ($6-$16)
Ambience: Mellow and low-key; easy to forget you're one of many guests even when full
|VinoVino is both wine bar and retail shop.|
Husband-and-wife team Jay and Ashley Donayre have put together a concise list for the enoteca that hints at the breadth of offerings at the retail store next door, and truly presents something for everyone. The light-weight and vibrant Charles Scherlet Riesling 2002 ($15/glass, $22/quartino, $48/bottle) contrasts nicely with a 2004 Vouvray Sec from Foreau ($17/glass, $25/quartino, $64/bottle), while Tenuta Rocca's Barolo ($39/quartino, $97/bottle) is a great foil to the 2005 Bandol from Domaine Castell-Reynoard ($16/glass, $24/quartino, $59/bottle).
VinoVino is clearly more a wine than food destination, and the menu includes only a small collection of basic, wine-friendly fare. For most, it will be better to start the evening here and then head elsewhere for a full dinner. Grazers, however, will enjoy the plate of six cheeses ($15), including an intensely flavored Beemster Classic and a lightly earthy Époisses, all explained in detail by the knowledgeable server. Meat-eaters can decide between the pâté plate (three for $10) or a plate of Italian cured meats ($15). Whatever's on the menu, VinoVino offers the right combination for small groups in search of a laid-back evening: a good glass of wine, a relaxed setting and the opportunity for some quiet conversation.
Location: 913 Broadway between E. 21st and E. 22nd Sts
Telephone: (212) 673-6333
Wine: 30 by the glass ($8–$19), over 200 by the bottle ($16–$460)
Food: A broad selection of tapas-style plates, pizzas, fondues and cheeses ($3–$16)
Ambience: A civilized respite from the surrounding retail bustle
|It's easy to wind down at Wined Up.|
Sommelier Joshua Hakimi has put together an extensive and well-priced list of more than 250 selections, with about 30 wines by the glass. The by-the-glass list changes frequently, as Hakimi prefers to stock small-case production selections. Wines are grouped by color and character. Under the "Complex But Not Heavy" white listing, you can find the 2007 Jean Marc Brocard Chablis ($13/glass) while under the "Lots of Character, Fuller Bodied" category for reds, you'll find Neyen 'Limited Edition' Syrah de Apalta 2006 ($17/glass).
There's more on Wined Up's food menu than you'll find at most wine bars, including three varieties of fondue ($15 each, served with bread, potatoes and fruit), a handful of small pizzas ($8-$10) tapas-style dishes with varying Mediterranean, Middle Eastern, Asian and Southern accents ($3-$12), and a well-chosen selection of cheeses, complete with provenance and tasting notes ($16 for a selection of five). Be sure to ask about the off-the-menu pairing specials as well. Despite its name's implications, Wined Up is definitely a place to wind down after a hard day's work, sightseeing or shopping.
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