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By William Echikson
Auberge La Fenière
To her admirers, Reine Sammut is the queen of Provençal cooking (indeed, her given name means "queen"). But there's nothing aristocratic or haughty about her. At Auberge La Fenière, the trim, handsome 48-year-old chef serves up gently innovative home cooking that's pure sunshine on the plate.
The Lubéron is famous for its food. Both avant-garde outposts and wonderful Provençal bistros abound in this corner of the Rhône Valley. At La Fenière, Sammut creates seasonal menus that fall somewhere in between. Her specialties include traditional Provençal stews, such as a braised beef daube, and pied en paquets, lamb feet and tripe stuffed in squares of lamb meat. But there are also innumerable innovative touches, such as fillet of pork with a sabayon sauce spiked with North African hot pepper, and roast pigeon accompanied by red rice with almonds. Desserts include memorable creations like strawberries and green pepper partnered with basil ice cream, and a carrot salad with orange juice sauce.
Route de Cadenet, 84160 Lourmarin Auberge de la Loube
As an idyllic, but simple, getaway, this 20-year-old establishment can't be beat. The road leads over forested hills and past sunflower fields to the hamlet of Buoux. Tables are placed out back on a covered terrace. The appetizers of raw vegetables and the main-course specialties-scrambled eggs with truffles, roasted leg of lamb-are simple yet tasty.
84480 Buoux Bistrot d'Eygalières
Wout Bru, a Belgian, is a talented newcomer. His restaurant is a subdued, elegant place serving perfectly executed dishes like foie gras with raisins in a Madeira sauce and pan-fried scallops in butter sauce. The wine list is filled with excellent choices from the Rhône and beyond. Prices for both food and wine tend to be high.
Rue de la République, 13810 Eygalières Le Fournil
This easygoing bistro is located in the center of the trendy hill town of Bonnieux. Chef Guy Malbec mixes Provençal ingredients with elements from Italy, Spain and North Africa. The menu is seasonal-this winter, for example, it included duck with figs and a "cappuccino" soup of mushrooms and mussels. In the warm months, the terrace provides a spectacular setting for outdoor dining.
5 Place Carnot, 84480 Bonnieux Moulin de Lourmarin
This, Lourmarin's other celebrated restaurant, is an avant-garde affair that's earned two Michelin stars. The Moulin is set in a grandly turned out, renovated mill with a vaulted dining room. Chef Edouard Loubet presents one exciting combination after another-snails are served in a foamy herb infusion; green asparagus appears in sea-urchin soup. The wine list is impressive, with ample offerings from all over France.
Rue Temple, 84160 Lourmarin
Telephone (011) 33-4-90-68-11-79
Fax (011) 33-4-90-68-18-60
E-mail reine@wanadoo.fr
Open Call for seasonal hours
Cost Expensive
Telephone (011) 33-4-90-74-19-58
Fax (011) 33-4-90-74-19-58
Open Call for seasonal hours
Cost Inexpensive
Telephone (011) 33-4-90-90-60-34
Fax (011) 33-4-90-90-60-37
Open Call for seasonal hours
Cost Expensive
Telephone (011) 33-4-90-75-83-62
Fax (011) 33-4-90-75-96-19
Open Call for seasonal hours
Cost Inexpensive
Telephone (011) 33-4-90-68-06-69
Fax (011) 33-4-90-68-31-76
E-mail lourmarin@francemarket.com
Open Call for seasonal hours
Cost Expensive
For the complete article, please see the May 15, 2001, issue of Wine Spectator magazine, page 99. (Subscribe today)
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