Long Island Vintner Diversifies Into Cheese and Verjus

Ryan Isaac
Posted: March 20, 1999

Roman Roth wasnt going to cry over spilled milk, so he made cheese from it instead. When the winemaker and general manager for Wolffer Estate-Sagpond Vineyards on Long Island learned that his South Fork neighbor raised cows, but wasn't using their milk, Roth brought a cheese-making consultant to his winery. Two months later, he was producing cheese on his own.

Today, the vineyard produces three 20-pound wheels of its Sagpond Farmstead Emmentaler (a type of Swiss cheese) per week -- the product of his neighbors four cows. "I am a winemaker first," Roth assured. "This is the only way I would do it. I wouldnt buy a truckload of milk to make cheese. This arrangement fits very well."

The cheese-making process has been a learning experience for Roth, who produces 10,000 cases annually of Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir on the 55-acre estate. "I never thought that thered be so much improvement with aging the cheese," he commented. "The first time I tasted it, I thought it was nice. I wouldve been satisfied with that." He learned, however, that a five-month aging period puts his cheese at a different flavor plateau. It is creamy and mild, with a slight nutty flavor.

The Sagpond Farmstead Emmentaler, which retails for $15 per pound, can be found in gourmet shops in the Hamptons and New York, as well as on cheese menus at top restaurants such as Picholine and Union Pacific in New York.

Additionally, Roth has released his second vintage of verjus, the sour liquid from crushed unripe grapes. The Wolffer Estate Verjus comes from the vineyards Chardonnay grapes and can be used in cooking as an alternative to vinegar or lemon juice.

Roth grew interested in verjus after reading about it and then sampling commercial offerings. Unhappy with what was available, he set out to produce his own, which is sold at New Yorks Gourmet Garage and can also be found in the kitchens of some of the citys well-known restaurants.

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