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In Lombardy, risotto reigns supreme. Although it may be made with just about anything, from frog's legs to asparagus, the most celebrated version of this classic rice dish is prepared alla Milanese -- flavored with saffron and marrow.

This golden risotto is the classic companion to osso buco, meaning "bone with a hole," referring to the nugget of marrow at the center of the bone in each crosswise slice of veal shank. In Milan, osso buco is simmered slowly with wine, vegetables and herbs until it is fork tender. The final, typically Milanese touch is gremolata, a seasoning mix that adds punch to the suave richness of the meat and sauce.

Osso buco pairs well with many medium- to full-bodied red wines. Barbaresco is an especially good choice.

When serving osso buco with risotto alla Milanese, not much else is needed. Follow this dish with a crisp salad, and perhaps a fruit tart for dessert.

Osso Buco Alla Milanese

• 4 1-1/2 inch thick meaty slices veal shank, preferably from the hind leg
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 3 tablespoons flour
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 1 small tender celery rib, chopped
• 1 carrot, finely chopped
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 1/2 cup peeled, seeded and chopped fresh or canned tomatoes
• 1 cup chicken or meat broth
• 1 garlic clove, finely chopped
• 2 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
• 2 tablespoons minced flat leaf parsley
• 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

Sprinkle the veal all over with the salt and pepper. Dredge the veal in the flour, shaking off the excess.

In a Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid, melt the butter with the oil over medium heat. Add the shanks and brown on all sides. Scatter the onion, celery and carrot around the meat and cook until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.

Add the wine and cook, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Stir in the tomatoes and broth and bring to a simmer. Partially cover the pan. Cook 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until the veal is tender and coming away from the bone, basting the meat occasionally with the sauce. If there is too much liquid, remove the cover and allow some of it to evaporate.

About 5 minutes before serving, chop together the garlic, anchovies, parsley and lemon. (Note: Some cooks leave out the garlic or the anchovies.) Stir the mixture into the sauce in the pan and baste the meat one last time. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

Risotto Milanese

• 6 cups meat broth, preferably homemade
• 1/2 teaspoon crumbled saffron threads
• 4 tablespoons butter
• 2 tablespoons beef marrow (optional)
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 small onion, very finely chopped
• 2 cups (about 1 pound) Arborio or other Italian medium-grain rice Salt and pepper, to taste
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Bring the broth to a simmer. Set aside 1/2 cup broth. Add the saffron to the reserved broth and stir to dissolve.

In a wide, heavy saucepan over medium heat, heat two tablespoons of the butter and the marrow and oil. When the butter is melted, add the onion and cook, stirring often until golden, about 10 minutes.

Add the rice and stir with a wooden spoon until it's quite hot, about 2 minutes. Add 1/2 cup of the hot broth and stir until the liquid is absorbed. Continue adding the broth a half-cup at a time, stirring constantly, until it is absorbed. After about 15 minutes, stir in the saffron broth, and salt and pepper to taste. Continue to add broth and stir until the grains are tender yet firm to the bite, and the mixture is creamy. If you run out of liquid before the rice is cooked, finish the cooking with hot water.

Remove the risotto from heat and stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter and the cheese until it's melted and creamy. Serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

Michele Scicolone is the author of The Sopranos Family Cookbook (Warner Books).