Tru
Progress and tradition in Chicago
Your meal at Tru should really begin with the caviar staircase, a signature presentation of ascending rectangular glass platforms. At the bottom are typical caviar garnishes-hard-boiled egg, red onions and capers. But on higher steps are golden whitefish roe, wasabi-infused roe and, at the top, traditional osetra or beluga.
The staircase is quintessential Tru: Bold executive chef and partner Rick Tramonto succeeds with a push and pull between tradition and modernity that frames the entire dining and wine experience.
Tru builds your expectations high-as you enter, you step into a dark, velvet-draped hostess area before passing by the bar and into the main room, a wide-open dining room with robotic-armlike light fixtures, minimalist decor and sparingly placed contemporary art. Floor-to-ceiling white drapes cover the windows, effectively removing the peripheral distraction of pedestrians outside while keeping you tuned to the city.
The wine list at Tru is centered on an extremely impressive Burgundy lineup. Classics such as the Henri Jayer Échézeaux 1978 ($3,900) and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 1969 ($3,450) are the headliners, while selections from Méo-Camuzet, Robert Chevillon, Comte Georges de Vogüé, J.-F. Coche-Dury, Domaine Leflaive and Domaine des Comtes Lafon add considerable range.
Bordeaux and Rhône also get comprehensive coverage-there are 15 vintages of Château Latour and seven vintages of Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle, for instance-while the choices from the Loire, Provence, Champagne and Alsace show savvy. But there's more to the list than France.
"I think the list is balanced between classics and modern wines," says sommelier Scott Tyree, echoing the theme set by Tramonto. Tru's wine program, which has been overseen by Tyree since the restaurant opened five years ago, has grown steadily from 250 selections to more than 1,300, now backed by an inventory of 20,000 bottles.
The list's modernity comes from its remarkable breadth, with California, Australia and Spain all well-represented, while selections from South Africa, Argentina, New Zealand and Greece round out the roster. There is also strong representation of German and Austrian whites, wines that prove to be ideal foils for Tramonto's seafood-dominated cuisine, highlights of which include octopus carpaccio and roasted Columbia River sturgeon. Meat lovers need not worry-foie gras, venison and lamb are all superbly prepared as well.
"The menu is very progressive, so you have to have high-acid, non-oaked dry white wines," says Tyree. So progressive, in fact, that the chef's spontaneous tasting menu has each course prepared differently for each person at the table-meaning a table of six diners ordering the 10-course menu will wind up with 60 different plates of food.
"And that's a challenge for the wine program," says Tyree, who, along with assistant sommelier Aaron Elliott, must open many different bottles to pour individual glasses to match the myriad dishes the kitchen sends out.
Tyree also maintains a selection of more than 90 half-bottles, giving needed flexibility. Though three- and four-digit prices abound, the wine list also provides numerous values, with dozens of wines listed for less than $60, such as the Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc Stellenbosch 2003 ($42) or Álvaro Palacios Priorat Les Terrasses 2001 ($55). Riedel stemware is employed exclusively (two to four kitchen staffers a night have the sole responsibility of keeping all the glasses polished), while spring water is poured complimentarily.
There's attention to detail in the pristine presentation of the list, which despite its size is very easy to navigate. It's also present in the waitstaff, trained by Tyree, who handle the wine service with a level of professionalism usually reserved for formal sommeliers.
The expense and effort is considerable, but Tramonto sums it up by saying, "We try to blow away everyone who comes in."
-- James Molesworth
TRU
676 N. St. Clair St., Chicago, IL 60611
Telephone (312) 202-0001
Wine selections 1,350
Number of bottles 20,000
