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| Guests at the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess can lounge beside one of the palm ringed pools or be pampered in the new spa. | |||
| The Resorts: | |||
| The Phoenician | |||
| Sanctuary | |||
| Fairmont Scottsdale Princess | |||
| Four Seasons Scottsdale | |||
| Hyatt Regency Scottsdale | |||
| Related links: | |||
| Find more destinations in our Travel section | |||
| Search for restaurants in Arizona | |||
In January, it's soggy in Seattle, and San Franciscans are feeling their way through the fog. In Chicago, people walk at 45-degree angles against the wind, and in New York, the snow is black.
And then there's winter in Phoenix, where the temperature is 72°F, the desert air is dry and clean, and blue skies go all the way to Utah.
"Ah," says the bellman at the Four Seasons Scottsdale resort, opening the door for a guest and taking a deep breath. "Another beautiful day." They say that a lot in the Phoenix-Scottsdale metropolitan area, at least between October and May, when the area becomes one of the nation's top winter havens. (You won't hear them say that so often in August, when it's 105°.)
While the region has been a destination for decades, a new generation of luxury resorts has opened in recent years, with more on the way. These resorts are like desert oases, one-stop vacations offering upscale accommodations, luxury spas, family-friendly water areas, access to some of the finest golf courses in the United States and, increasingly, first-class food and wine experiences.
"When I first came to Phoenix, 15 years ago, I would have characterized it as a meat-and-potatoes town, but eventually that began to change," says Reed Groban, executive chef of the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess resort. "I think Phoenix has become more sophisticated and savvy because you have a lot of people who have settled here from around the country who have expectations."
Just how high are the expectations? Consider, for a moment, the scene inside the ballroom of the JW Marriott Desert Ridge just before Thanksgiving. Opening day looms, and construction workers are putting the finishing touches on this massive resort. The ballroom is stacked with pallets of new china, Riedel stemware and other upscale paraphernalia for the resort's nine restaurants.
"There are so many gorgeous hotels, so we have to surpass them with food and service," says Paul Rossi, director of food and beverage. The Marriott Desert Ridge is certainly trying to raise the stakes. The resort's signature dining room will be a tony Italian restaurant called Tuscany, and other restaurants on the premises will bear the signatures of celebrity chefs Roy Yamaguchi and Mark Miller.
Across town, the Sheraton Wild Horse Pass opened last fall. Located on and owned by the Gila River Indian reservation, this theatrical resort is a must for those who are passionate about things Native American. It is also home to one of the region's most promising new restaurants, Kai. Janos Wilder, James Beard Award to winning chef and owner of Janos in Tucson, is the consultant, and he has crafted an invigoratingly creative menu that takes inspiration from Native American foods.
As for leisure activities, upscale shopping is abundant throughout the area, and historic Scottsdale is a favorite outing. In March, baseball fans flock to the region for Major League spring training. Tennis remains popular, but golf is the main attraction. The Phoenix-Scottsdale area has nearly 140 public-access courses, according to Larry Olmsted of Golf Insider, an independent newsletter, and it's the rare resort that doesn't have its own course, or at least privileges at a nearby club. "Scottsdale is the home of desert golf, which is a distinct style," Olmsted explains. Instead of the lush green lawns and tall shade trees, desert golf provides a dramatic landscape of tall boulders and spiny cacti. "It's so stark, so breathtaking," he says.
The best of these desert-style courses, according to Olmsted, can be found at the Troon North Golf Club, located just beyond the northern outskirts of Scottsdale. Troon North's Monument course was just rated the No. 21 course in the nation by Golf magazine. The Four Seasons, one of the region's most opulent resorts, is nearby, and its guests have privileges at the course.
Even farther from town is the Boulders Resort, an intimate and exclusive resort amid the rocks and cacti of a remote village named Carefree. It's particularly popular with golfers, since the Boulders' two courses are considered among the best in the nation. (And because the golf club is private, staying there is the only way to gain access.)
Choosing the right resort is simply a matter of deciding which one matches your interests. The Phoenician is the city's most luxurious and is home to the only restaurant in the area with a Wine Spectator Grand Award to winning wine list.
For classic architecture, the Arizona Biltmore is a must. The consultant was Frank Lloyd Wright, and the Biltmore set the standard for luxury in Phoenix when it opened in 1929. It remains an elegant destination today, although its lead restaurant, Wright's, has a new chef and wine director and is still finding its way. The Pointe Hilton Tapatio Cliffs resort is a good alternative for the budget-conscious, and its Different Pointe of View restaurant boasts an expansive overlook of Phoenix and a Best of Award of Excellence to winning wine list.
If you prefer something hipper, Sanctuary on Camelback Mountain is another recent addition to the area, and while the Hyatt Regency Scottsdale lacks a top-notch wine program, it joins the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess in the category of most versatile resorts.
What follows is a detailed look at five of the region's top luxury getaways, resorts that offer the most for today's wine- and food-savvy travelers.
The Phoenician: Gilding the lily in a desert oasis
With the sun low in the sky, Camelback Mountain seems to blush in the fading light. The Phoenician, in the shadow of the mountain, looks like a sleek and modern Mayan temple -- a first impression, evoking money and prestige, that's characteristic of a resort that never settles for second-best.
Luxurious and exclusive, with a distinguished golf course and high-level pampering, the Phoenician seals the experience with Mary Elaine's. The top restaurant in town, Mary Elaine's has the best wine list, holding a Wine Spectator Grand Award.
Interiors, done in Italian marble and gold leaf, epitomize the panache of the moneyed 1980s. Accommodations are opulent and spacious -- even the smallest room is 600 square feet -- with some suites offering more than 1,200 square feet of elbowroom, plus amenities such as fireplaces and whirlpool tubs. The decor is Southwestern, in an elegant, understated mode.
Outside, the resort terraces down acres of lawns, with flowing water, palm trees and private cottages, a dozen tennis courts and nine swimming pools (one tiled in mother-of-pearl). A cactus garden is the only reminder of the desert. The Centre for Well-Being offers massages and facials, plus yoga and tarot card reading. The Phoenician has three nine-hole golf courses; well-manicured and not too challenging, they were recently ranked among the top 30 resort courses in the country by Golf Digest magazine.
The Phoenician's greatest indulgence, however, is the aforementioned Mary Elaine's. In a town known for dressing down, Mary Elaine's is a formal experience: Persian rugs, bone China, Riedel crystal and a tuxedo tending every table. Although chef Bradford Thompson, formerly of Restaurant Daniel in New York, is a recent addition, the kitchen shows no signs of honeymoon jitters. The cuisine is modern French, with mainstays such as Dover sole meunire and more adventuresome offerings such as chateaubriand of buffalo.
The wine staff, led by master sommelier Greg Tresner, is attentive and erudite without being stuffy, and the 2,400-selection wine list is impeccable, rich with classics from France, Italy and Germany, with trendy collectibles from California and the region's best selection of older vintages.
The resort may be a bit too buttoned-down and highly polished for some. But if formal opulence is your style, the Phoenician sets a standard that other area resorts can't quite match.
The Phoenician Mary Elaine's
Sanctuary: Where Asian design meets Southwestern ambience
In a town saturated in Southwestern pastels, Sanctuary on Camelback Mountain is a welcome dose of youthful attitude and cutting-edge design. Not that this newly refurbished resort is a party place; in fact, it lives up to its name, offering an intimate retreat with abundant privacy. But it does succeed in bringing a refreshingly contemporary state of mind to the often staid desert scene.
The resort, in the northern foothills of Camelback Mountain, was originally a local tennis club, in the 1950s, and later became the nationally known John Gardiner's Tennis Ranch. It was renovated and reopened as Sanctuary in March 2001. The atmosphere is sleek, with a distinctly Asian inspiration, yet it seems to embrace the desert and feel at home on the mountainside.
All of the rooms and suites are in casitas, or cottages, which lace the terraced hillside. Many date to the original resort but have been handsomely updated into roomy havens done in an elegant Asia-meets-the-desert casual, with wooden shutters, wide balconies and wood-burning fireplaces. More luxurious are the 24 new spa casitas. Designed in bold colors, with highly stylized furnishings and polished maple cabinetry, they would be at home in Architectural Digest. The largest are 850-square feet and have distinctive lava-rock fireplaces and private outdoor soaking tubs.
The Sanctuary Spa is the focal point of the resort's Eastern influence, with treatments such as a Sumatra coconut polish. Each of the treatment rooms opens onto a courtyard meditation garden, which offers a prime view of Camelback's famed Praying Monk rock formation. In addition to an infinity-edge pool that offers a striking view of Paradise Valley, there are three other pools, including a shaded lap pool.
At Elements restaurant, executive chef Charles Wiley, formerly of the Boulders Resort in nearby Carefree, offers a creative seasonal menu of Asian-inspired California cuisine. However, service in the restaurant is spotty and rather unseasoned. The 150-selection wine list lacks depth in older vintages, but features a smart and well-priced collection of West Coast wines, plus a sprinkling of French and Italian bottlings. At night, the place to be is the Jade Bar, a fashionable watering hole where guests gather around a dramatic fire pit on the patio. It's the ideal spot to cap off the Sanctuary experience.
Sanctuary Elements
Fairmont Scottsdale Princess: An all-round resort to suit every taste
The Fairmont Scottsdale Princess just may be the area's most versatile and best all-around resort. It offers a diversity of food and wine experiences, a refined yet comfortable environment, easy access to the top golf courses in town, a family-friendly atmosphere and a new spa that rivals the best in the area.
The Princess, a terra-cotta classic done in Mexican-colonial style, has been at the forefront of the local resort scene since opening in 1987. The resort is large, but the buildings are scattered through 450 acres of lush landscaping, lending a surprising amount of privacy. The rooms have a casual sense of luxury, with an unfussy yet graceful Southwestern design. The spacious Casita suites offer the most privacy; many have fireplaces.
Recreation abounds on the property. Two waterslides at the Sonoran splash pool are the main attraction for kids, while adults can have a quiet experience at two other pools. The tennis center hosts professional tournaments that draw stars such as Serena Williams and Andre Agassi. The adjacent Tournament Players Golf Club is home to the annual Phoenix The Princess has three notable restaurants. The Grill, which has an Award of Excellence to winning wine list, serves dry-aged beef and is considered by Wine Spectator contributor John Mariani to be among the best steak houses in the country. The third restaurant, La Hacienda, is upscale Mexican restaurant in the United States with a four-star Mobil rating.
Foremost, however, is Marquesa, plushly set in fine marble and leather, accented with 17th century Spanish colonial art and antiques. The wine list and chef Reed Groban's Mediterranean menu are a fine match, each offering some of the best creations of France, Italy and Spain. Groban's paella -- an unusual spin on the classic -- is dramatic in presentation and is made all the better by first-class service. The 270-selection wine list offers only a limited number of older vintages, but it does include key producers and has a solid selection of California standards and wines from Spain.
Between its three signature restaurants, the Princess can keep guests intrigued night after night, but then, that's true of the whole resort.
Fairmont Scottsdale Princess Marquesa
6000 E. Camelback Road, Scottsdale, AZ 85251
Telephone (480) 941-8200; (800) 888-8234
Web site www.thephoenician.com
Rooms 581
Suites 69
Villas 7
Rates $595 to $5,500
Open Dinner, Tuesday to Saturday
Cost Entrèes $42 to $46
Grand Award
5700 E. McDonald Drive, Paradise Valley, AZ 85253
Telephone (480) 948-2100; (800) 245-2051
Web site www.sanctuaryaz.com
Rooms 49
Suites 49
Rates $360 to $1,260
Open Breakfast, lunch and dinner, daily
Cost Entrèes $19 to $29
Open, a key event in the PGA tour. Most impressive is the Willow Stream Spa, a $16 million facility that opened in 2001. What it lacks in intimacy, it makes up in sophistication and style. The rooftop-mesa pool, for example, flows down a three-story rock canyon and showers onto guests soaking in a eucalyptus-scented pool.
7575 E. Princess Drive, Scottsdale, AZ 85255
Telephone (480) 585-4848; (800) 344-4758
Web site www.fairmont.com
Rooms 491
Suites 71
Villas 72
Rates $409 to $3,300
Open Dinner, Tuesday to Saturday; brunch, Sunday
Cost Entrèes $34 to $45
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